[Mk2] [NA] Its oil jim, but not where it should be...

[JesterTiger]

Picked up the engine from Madbasshunter on Saturday and got it into the workshop today. Started to have a look at it and it differs from my Rev1 engine in a few ways.. things like mine doesnt have a cold start injector on the manifold by the throttle body, the brackets are different on the engine, pipes arn't lagged and heat shields look different. then i went in search of the oil leak down the timing belt side of the engine. thats when i noticed that the timing is also different.. well the Tensioner is different anyway and i think its where the Oil spill is coming from..

think a new Belt and tensioner kit is on order.. its soaked in oil... will also change the cam oil seals as it looks a bit weepy from them too. but the thing is with all this. is my Rev1 JDM ecu going to work ok with this engine? im changing the injection system over anyway, my throttle body and such. just want to make 100% sure its ok before i start throwing myself deep into it..

[ashley]

You sure it's a rev1? Was your orignal engine a 3SFE or a 3SGE?

You may find the oil is being flicked up by the belt, and is actually coming from the crank shaft oil seal...

[JesterTiger]

My original engine was a 3S-GE 1990 Jap Import lump with a Spring tensioner. i might as well change every seal on that side of the engine at this rate. just in case.. i cant run it till its all back together and in the car anyway. no other way of finding out where it comes from till then.
(this is my original engine still in the car.. note no cold start injector...)

[JesterTiger]

also i was told it was a Rev 1 engine. so only going by what i was told. it came from a Purple Monster that belonged to a member on here.

[madbasshunter]

My original engine was a 3S-GE 1990 Jap Import lump with a Spring tensioner. i might as well change every seal on that side of the engine at this rate. just in case.. i cant run it till its all back together and in the car anyway. no other way of finding out where it comes from till then.
(this is my original engine still in the car.. note no cold start injector...)

heres the one going in from a rev1 uk car

[JesterTiger]

yup its ok just me being me.. its the same head and block, just different parts being one from UK and one from Japan. spent the day playing with it, finding out all its fun bits.. that bottom pulley bolt is still not moving.. even with the big Kawasaki air gun on it. resorting to more evil ways of moving the bolt in the morning. (we had no chance outside the garage Clive). oil leak is tensioner seal. so thats not an issue. also may be where that rumble comes from.. low oil pressure on startup because of the leaky seal. injection system is off, mine fits on and will work. toying with getting a stainless replica exhaust now rather than later. so many heavy brackets on that thing.. wonder what it would be like if i remove and replaced all the big heavy cast braces with light weight alloy ones? would it be less or more tail happy? only time will tell.

[ashley]

The more weight you remove from the back end the better, no need to go after market exhaust manifold though...just remove one (or both) of the brackets.

Careful how you try to remove the crank pulley bolt- heat is not your friend, the pulley is a two part piece with rubber in the middle (to act as a damper)

[JesterTiger]

yeah i was advised not to use heat cause of the damper and it could also ruin the crank end. its not a problem. the only source of heat i have here is a heatgun. but i have a spare pulley and bolt anyway. i was going to change the header for stainless steel. i like the sound it makes and looks nice. most of the heat shields i have found large bits of sheet stainless as replacements and started working on the new alloy mounts where possible. think i can prob take off around 25KG of weight just by doing silly small things. i have a lot of A2 stainless bolts to go in too. its going to be a nice tasty lump when it goes in. ohh need silicone hose kit too. the vac lines are really solid and dodgy.

[bobhatton]

oil leak is tensioner seal. so thats not an issue. also may be where that rumble comes from.. low oil pressure on startup because of the leaky seal.

The engine oil has nothing to do with the cam belt tensioner, that is a sealed unit.

[JesterTiger]

yup got that now.. tensioner is sealed.. and it wasnt leaking. cam seals are leaking however as is the crank seal both ends. but its all being sorted. everything is ordered. just waiting for it to all turn up so i can rebuild.

[JesterTiger]

Just had the crank out. and the bearings were definitely due to go.. lots of bearing scores and need to get the crank checked out. the other thing is i think i know why i couldn't find the engine number listed for N/A.. its got Oil squirter's for the piston crowns.. so that would make it a 3S-GTE block???? (pictures to follow shortly). now i have to remove the head. because if it is a 3S-GTE block, what is the head? throws the whole thing of it being a rev1 engine totally out the window. (even though i also went on to think its a rev2). this also has changed one thing.. me keeping it stock.. think i will change that to going down the route of making a nice really strong rebuild out of this. new bearings, gaskets, seals etc. found someone locally who can balance the crank and rods for me too, so will get that done in Jan. fun fun fun...