[Mk2] [Generic] Rogue quad headlights wiring mod

[shinny]

A couple of people have asked me to repost my instructions to get all four lights to stay on, as demonstrated on my car...

These are my lights on dipped beam:



And on main beam:



Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNX8-s1aEfw

As you can see, the dipped lights and the marker bulbs in the main beam units are always on, and only the main beam H7s are turned on and off. To achieve this I did the following on both sides:

1. Connect the red wire from the marker bulb to the red wire on the main rogue loom
2. Cut the black wire on the rogue loom.
3. Connect the black wire trailing from the unit and the black wire from the marker bulb to a new piece of wire (make sure this can handle >5A)
4. Route the new wire through the rubber grommet, attach a ring terminal and bolt it to the chassis as a ground

At this point, your lights will behave as described above, but your main beam indicator will be inoperative. To fix this, on one side

1. Cut the thick red wire with a blue stripe under the steering column (if you fail to do this, you'll blow fuses and / or melt wiring). On somes cars, such as mine, this wire might have a green stripe instead.
2. Connect three new wires to the rogue loom - the red and blue wires, plus the hanging end of the black wire on the side of the plug
3. Route all three wires through the grommet.
4. Attach an automotive relay so that the red wire it attached to one side of the solenoid and one side of the switch. Attach the blue wire to the other side of the solenoid and the black wire to the other side of the switch

If you ever take the rogue lights off, you'll need to reconnect the red and green wire, or your dipped beam won't work

I chose to solder everything, so the only crimp joints are within the frunk, away from sources of corrosion

Wiring diagram for the USA car is here: http://www.shinny.co.uk/toyota/MR2_SW_1 ... litusa.pdf

It's close but not exact... notably, the colour code for the cut wire might be fractionally different. I'll leave it as an exercise for the reader to work out why I cut the red wire between I10 and 3(A)

For reference, the H4 wiring loom on the rogue units is wired as such:
Red: Common 12V (Red/Green or Red/Black on the car's wiring)
Blue: Switched main beam earth (Red/Yellow on car's wiring)
Black: Switched dipped beam ground and 12V source for main beam indicator (Red/Light Green on car's wiring)

[JAAASH]

Brilliant, thank you very much!

[Peter Gidden]

So with main and dip beams on, you're running twice the current through the earth suppy to the column switch, and the column switch itself, than either was designed for.

Not disputing it works, but only fair to warn owners of the potential issues.

Which is why for safety and long term reliability, i use relays and a couple of blocking diodes. The lights end up taking their extra current requirements direct from the battery, and the column switch and existing wiring are fed no more current than before.

[shinny]

Not so... the current is doubled through the main headlight relay and fuses (2x55w is still about 9.5A for the 15A fuses). As the dipped beam is earthed directly to the chassis, the current through the switchgear is still just the main beam and relay activation. In fact, the current for the dipped beam now never goes through the column stalk switch.

[shinny]

Wiring diagrams to illustrate what I've done...

Original wiring:



Stage one - dipped beam and marker bulbs always on, full beam indicator non-functional:
(The two H7 bulbs are still shown as a single H4 here)



Stage two - fixed full beam indicator:



Although extra current is being drawn through the two fuses, they're still within the limits of the fuses. You just need to trust that Toyota weren't silly enough to put wiring into the car that melted before the fuses! The total power required is 4x55W+2x4W (the marker bulbs), giving 228W, or 19A. Now, you have to assume the wiring leading from a 15A fuse can handle 15A (otherwise there's no point having the fuse!) and likewise the relay and wiring leading to that can at very least support one fuse nearly blowing (15A) plus the other bulb still functioning normally (4.5A), which exceeds the maximum current draw of my modified setup. Even generic automotive relays are rated at 40A, so that's not really a concern either. Finally there's current running though the steering column less often (ie. only main beam), and certainly not a greater current at any time

[craig]

Just a heads up to anyone wanting the quad light effect from Revision 6 head lights, the above method simply joins the dipped beams to the sidelight circuit. Therefore, when you have the sidelights on with the headlights retracted, the headlights will be on.

Following discussions with an MOT tester, this is illegal and a straight MOT fail.

This is how mine are wired:



This:

-Maintains the factory wiring
-Maintains the factory fuses
-Produces the quad light effect
-Maintains the separate function of the sidelights and dipped beams
-Maintains the factory main beam indicator

[shinny]

Just a heads up to anyone wanting the quad light effect from Revision 6 head lights, the above method simply joins the dipped beams to the sidelight circuit. Therefore, when you have the sidelights on with the headlights retracted, the headlights will be on.

No... no it really doesn't! When you saw your car do that, did you really think "yeah, that's what Shinny intended"? Sorry, but if your car did that then you followed the instructions wrong and haven't understood the wiring diagrams I posted either.

Maybe you saw me reference the bulbs built into the high beam lenses that are intended as sidelights in OEM applications and instead decide to connect to the car's sidelight circuitry?? I guess I'll have to make that clearer...


As for the wiring diagram you posted, it only creates the quad light look on full beam because the low power "sidelight" bulbs built into the high beam lens isn't taken into account. It creates a single point of failure for all 4 of your lights in the "Hi" fuse; blow that fuse and none of the 4 filaments will illuminate. But, most confusingly, once the right hand relay activates to extinguish the high beam indicator it cannot deactivate until you turn the headlights off completely. I'm hoping that wiring diagram is inaccurate compared to what's been wried into your car.

[ashley]

Stage one - dipped beam and sidelight bulbs always on, full beam indicator non-functional:
(The two H7 bulbs are still shown as a single H4 here)

Without having the rogue lights, so can't follow your wire colour descriptions, I think what you've done is basically give the side lights and dipped lights power direct from the headlight control relay, and earthed them at source.

I think this means your sidelights don't come on when you move the light control switch to "Tail" anymore? They only come on when you switch the dipped beams on, and no longer work independently of the side lights?

Not a terrible solution...

[shinny]

THIS REWIRING DOES NOT TOUCH THE CAR'S ACTUAL SIDELIGHTS!

Without having the rogue lights, so can't follow your wire colour descriptions, I think what you've done is basically give the side lights and dipped lights power direct from the headlight control relay, and earthed them at source.

I think this means your sidelights don't come on when you move the light control switch to "Tail" anymore? They only come on when you switch the dipped beams on, and no longer work independently of the side lights?

Not a terrible solution...

My rewiring means that when the headlight control relay activates (ie. when the headlights are flashed or turned on) then the dipped beam filaments and the low power "sidelight" bulbs built into the high beam lenses are turned on. Then the low / high stalk only turn off / on the high beam filaments.

The sidelight bulbs next to the indicators behave exactly as they did before.

[ashley]

Gotcha

(and no need to shout mate!)

[shinny]

Gotcha

(and no need to shout mate!)

Sorry... I was just trying to make it clear, as it appears two of you in a row thought I was recommending mucking around with the behaviour of the sidelights

[ashley]

Your wiring diagram kinda suggests you have played with the front sidelights, hence the mistake I made...but now you've clarified- I get it. To be honest- I didn't realise there were any "low power sidelight bulbs built into the high beam lenses"...that's a new one on me, is that part of the Rogue design?

[shinny]

Your wiring diagram kinda suggests you have played with the front sidelights, hence the mistake I made...but now you've clarified- I get it. To be honest- I didn't realise there were any "low power sidelight bulbs built into the high beam lenses"...that's a new one on me, is that part of the Rogue design?

It's part of the Hella lens, yes. Often overlooked I suspect

You can see it illuminated in the photos at the very top of the thread

That said, I've made a number of references to the "sidelight" bulbs assuming people caught the context at the top of the thread about them being the bulbs within the high beam lens, not the car's actual headlights.

I guess I need to rewrite the first post a little to make it more difficult to misinterpret... I'll take new photos too, but that needs to happen in daylight.

[Martin F]

So with main and dip beams on, you're running twice the current through the earth suppy to the column switch, and the column switch itself, than either was designed for.

Not disputing it works, but only fair to warn owners of the potential issues.

Which is why for safety and long term reliability, i use relays and a couple of blocking diodes. The lights end up taking their extra current requirements direct from the battery, and the column switch and existing wiring are fed no more current than before.

Definitely possible with the incorrect knowledge/wiring, In fact it almost lead to the death of my car thanks to whoever fitted the lights originally, albeit not the rogue lights but still a quad light setup....
So good point in the greater scheme of things

[shinny]

So with main and dip beams on, you're running twice the current through the earth suppy to the column switch, and the column switch itself, than either was designed for.

Not disputing it works, but only fair to warn owners of the potential issues.

Which is why for safety and long term reliability, i use relays and a couple of blocking diodes. The lights end up taking their extra current requirements direct from the battery, and the column switch and existing wiring are fed no more current than before.

Definitely possible with the incorrect knowledge/wiring, In fact it almost lead to the death of my car thanks to whoever fitted the lights originally, albeit not the rogue lights but still a quad light setup....
So good point in the greater scheme of things

Actually, Peter's analysis was incorrect. In a post above I've explained why it's wrong and detailed why I believe the mod poses no risk to the wiring. (Yes, I considered the double-current point Peter intended to make before I started) That was nearly 4 years ago and, after all that time, I've had no problems what-so-ever with this mod

Wiring mods always need to be carefully designed because if you don't know what you're doing you can end up with your headlights switching on with your sidelights... or whatever the heck happened here:

Eeeesh!!! Some people shouldn't do wiring

[Martin F]

So with main and dip beams on, you're running twice the current through the earth suppy to the column switch, and the column switch itself, than either was designed for.

Not disputing it works, but only fair to warn owners of the potential issues.

Which is why for safety and long term reliability, i use relays and a couple of blocking diodes. The lights end up taking their extra current requirements direct from the battery, and the column switch and existing wiring are fed no more current than before.

Definitely possible with the incorrect knowledge/wiring, In fact it almost lead to the death of my car thanks to whoever fitted the lights originally, albeit not the rogue lights but still a quad light setup....
So good point in the greater scheme of things

Actually, Peter's analysis was incorrect. In a post above I've explained why it's wrong and detailed why I believe the mod poses no risk to thwiring. That was nearly 4 years ago and, after all that time, I've had no problwhat-so-ever with this mod

Wiring mods always need to be carefully designed because if you don't know what you're doing you can end up with your headlights switching on with your sidelights... or whatever the heck happened here:

Image Replaced With URL For Quote [url]http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u182/mrtee-1/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/DSC_0762_zpst4uoaoge.jpg[/URL]

Eeeesh!!! Some people shouldn't do wiring

I should maybe have explained my self better, your original post was fine, I was just pointing out that other scenarios are possible, in my case the original owner simply swapped the lights straight on to the standard wiring without taking into consideration the extra current the quads would draw, same as he put wide tyres on the front wheels causing the inside of the tyre to get damaged
I wasn't saying there was anything wrong with your setup , just adding another experience and posibility to this thread

[craig]

As ash has mentioned, I looked at your wiring diagram and thought you'd re-fed the dipped beams off the factory sidelight circuit!

Although you've had no problems, I still wouldn't be happy pulling the extra current through the wiring to feed the 2 X 55W bulbs off the sidelight wire in the headlight unit.

I haven't bothered with the sidelights in the rogue headlights. Couldn't see the point in having them seeing at they're already in the front lenses.

The way my lights are wired up is perfect. No worries with additional current loading etc. An oem type installation. Everything works as it should do.

You can't have true quad lights on these lights anyway. One lense is a projector lense, and the other is a normal lense. Why would you want 4 dipped beams? Plus you'd need a double filament bulb on the inner for the main beam.

[shinny]

Mate, you misunderstood the instructions and hooked your lights up in a way that doesn't match my step-by-step guide. (At no point did I instruct you to connect a length of wire from the car's sidelight circuit!). That doesn't mean the mod is bad and it's certainly no worse than what you posted.

Although you've had no problems, I still wouldn't be happy pulling the extra current through the wiring to feed the 2 X 55W bulbs off the sidelight wire in the headlight unit.

I explained 3 1/2 years ago why that doesn't pose a real problem. Besides, according to the wiring diagram you posted, you're doing exactly the same by drawing double the current through the standard fuses and thus the standard wiring they're connected to

I haven't bothered with the sidelights in the rogue headlights. Couldn't see the point in having them seeing at they're already in the front lenses.

Um... that's entire point of this thread! Whether on dipped or full beam, there is something illuminated in all four lenses whenever my lights are popped up.

The way my lights are wired up is perfect. No worries with additional current loading etc. An oem type installation. Everything works as it should do.

Not according to your wiring diagram it isn't... in fact, your wiring makes very little sense and, as I've said before, I hope your car isn't wired up like that. And, yes, you do have double-current "worries"; it's very obvious from your wiring diagram.

You can't have true quad lights on these lights anyway. One lense is a projector lense, and the other is a normal lense. Why would you want 4 dipped beams? Plus you'd need a double filament bulb on the inner for the main beam.

Actually, the 1989 vehicle lighting regs disallows a more than one pair of dipped beams to be illuminated at a time. But it's very possible with a bi-halogen or bi-xenon setup. More effort than it's worth though...

[craig]

Mate, you misunderstood the instructions and hooked your lights up in a way that doesn't match my step-by-step guide. (At no point did I instruct you to connect a length of wire from the car's sidelight circuit!). That doesn't mean the mod is bad and it's certainly no worse than what you posted.

I didn't hook up my lights to your diagram, I had them wired to the diagram I posted. That diagram I posted doesn't show the factory wiring side of the wiring. Neither does it show the main beam indicator.

I explained 3 1/2 years ago why that doesn't pose a real problem. Besides, according to the wiring diagram you posted, you're doing exactly the same by drawing double the current through the standard fuses and thus the standard wiring they're connected to

I am not doing exactly the same. The wiring from the headlight relay to the fuses has been doubled up. I've also got 4 pin weather pack plugs with 2 separate lives and earths for each side:



This replaces the 3 pin Rogue plug.

I haven't bothered with the sidelights in the rogue headlights. Couldn't see the point in having them seeing at they're already in the front lenses.

Um... that's entire point of this thread! Whether on dipped or full beam, there is something illuminated in all four lenses whenever my lights are popped up.

Personal preference. I would rather have true quad lights (all four the same when on) rather than a 55W and a 5W bulb lit. Plus as I say, couldn't see the point as sidelights are already present in the front lenses.

The way my lights are wired up is perfect. No worries with additional current loading etc. An oem type installation. Everything works as it should do.

Not according to your wiring diagram it isn't... in fact, your wiring makes very little sense and, as I've said before, I hope your car isn't wired up like that. And, yes, you do have double-current "worries"; it's very obvious from your wiring diagram..

As above.

You can't have true quad lights on these lights anyway. One lense is a projector lense, and the other is a normal lense. Why would you want 4 dipped beams? Plus you'd need a double filament bulb on the inner for the main beam.

Actually, the 1989 vehicle lighting regs disallows a more than one pair of dipped beams to be illuminated at a time. But it's very possible with a bi-halogen or bi-xenon setup. More effort than it's worth though...

ok.

[shinny]

I didn't hook up my lights to your diagram, I had them wired to the diagram I posted. That diagram I posted doesn't show the factory wiring side of the wiring. Neither does it show the main beam indicator.

Now I'm really confused... you didn't actually use my instructions?

Personal preference. I would rather have true quad lights (all four the same when on) rather than a 55W and a 5W bulb lit. Plus as I say, couldn't see the point as sidelights are already present in the front lenses.

I'll take a photo or video when it becomes dusk so you can see what my lights are actually doing. Because I've no idea how much more "true" quad you can get other than mine with the lenses supplied in the Rogue kit.