[Mk2] [NA] Potential Oil light related black death

[Loque]

Hi all,

I have to admit I'm begiiiiining to feel like I've bought a bit of a ringer of a 2 as I've had quite a few little niggly problems of late, so no one needs to highlight the fact!

3 days ago I went out for what may be termed as an 'enthusiastic' drive across some of my favourite local roads. Car handled very well, and so on, lovely. However, when I was on my way back home warming everything down the oil level light came on. Thinking it was a case of "oh crap, I must've burned a bit of oil" I pulled over immediately and checked the level (not that I was expecting it to tell me too much anyhow) but I did and the level was just next to the full marker. I found this pretty strange, either way I was about 2 miles from home and decided that I'd limp home, let the car cool off for the night and top her up the next day.

To be clear, this is the amber Oil Level Light - not the red one on the left of the dash

The next day I read the level, it was bang on between max & min - right where I left it when I serviced the car about 4,000 miles/4 months ago - the oil was still a pretty reasonable pale ale colour too. I also got a friend to test it as well, just to make sure I wasn't being stupid. I came inside, did a little bit of research and deduced that the sensor was probably on it's way out. Either way, I decided to take the car for a little exploratory drive to see if the problem reared its ugly head once more.

I found that the car needed to get warm before the light came on. The light came on as I went round a roundabout or up a hill and stayed on until I either found a hill to drive down, or a sharp left hander. Still, getting un-nerved at the oil light on the dashboard and the feeling that the sensor might actually have been responding correctly, I retired the test. The car didn't sound knocky at the start or the end of the drive, responded reasonably well although I didn't rag it. This morning I took the car down to a mechanic, to see what he had to say. As luck would have it he's closed on a Saturday so I went back home. About half a mile away the light came on, and stayed on till I got home and turned the car off. I thought just for the craic I'd then read the fault codes - maybe a sensor was throwing something up. But alas - it was clear.

I just started it about an hour ago to put it up the driveway, and it wouldn't turn over. Nada. It cranks and cranks but doesn't catch. Beginning to crap an impressively sized pile of building materials I have hit the internet in search of some sole hope that it's not completely dead.

[h180eeu]

Cold oil level should be 3/4 to allow the oil level in the sump to drop with circulting oil and temperture. Sounds like its simply a little too low.

As for now not starting you need to establish if you have spark/fuel/compression

[Slarty]

I think it's pretty safe to say that the two issues are unrelated. UK N/A's are well known to have issues with the oil level sensor going bad. As you quite correctly state, it's the orange warning (low level) light that's coming on, and not the red (low oil pressure) one coming on. You can either choose to ignore the warning lamp or either remove the bulb from the dash or replace the sensor. The latter is the most expensive option, btw

I highly doubt that the starting problem that you have it related to the low oil lever sensor going wonky. As you've seen by checking for error codes, it's not tied into the ECU in any way shape or form, it's purely a warning for the owner.

You need to check for spark/fuel as has already been suggested.

[Loque]

Ooookay.

I had a bit of a session on the car yesterday with a mechanic friend of mine. In the morning the car refused to start still.

We went down the route of ignoring the oil light for the time being and took out one of the spark plugs, attached it to the lead and checked to see if it would spark to earth. It did. For some, God unknown reason the car decided to fire up on three cylinders when we did this.

Popped the plug back in, and she spluttered into life the next time we started her.

After a short test drive and cool down we found that the car was all good to start so long as it was hot, but the moment it cooled down it took a lot of cranking to get it going. Anyone had any experiences with this? It's had a new set of Magnecor leads 5k ago, plugs changed 15k ago and the clearances checked about 2k ago. Coil & Igniter were switched for a recon unit about 10k ago, so it may be that I suppose...

Later on we also managed to find the fault with the sensor; it'd clearly got hot when submerged in oil and one of the contacts had come unsoldered - we simply soldered it back and the light hasn't come on since...

[Chloke83]

For a start change the Magnecor leads back to standard Toyota ones. Magnecors are not the greatest and lots of people have had problems with them.

[dawesy]

cold start switch? cant remember if its the green or brown one on the water elbow (sure someone will correct me )

[Loque]

For a start change the Magnecor leads back to standard Toyota ones. Magnecors are not the greatest and lots of people have had problems with them.

Unfortunately they failed on me and are now in the bin. I've read a lot of negative press about MCs, I'm interested to see where it comes from? I'm not saying you're incorrect - would just like to know a bit more. The only obvious thing to me is that they use a boot rather than a proper Toyota plastic connector. The way I see it is it's just an insulated piece of wire at the end of the day though?

Admittedly from what people are saying the Toyota OEM leads are expensive for a reason, but my local dealer quoted me £170 for a set, which I thought was a bit strong, hence why I went with the Magnecors that were more wallet friendly yet better (or so I thought at the time) quality. Initially I ordered some Bosch replacements off eBay - and they were crap - pretty much fell apart in my hands crap.

Anyway I'm digressing here. Up until yesterday the car was still reluctant to start, although I went away last week and left the car unused for 5 days and it still did, eventually start. However, I decided to inspect the points in the distributor cap. Lo & behold there was corrosion on 2/4 of the points and the other 2 weren't in good nick either. I have since replaced the unit with a spare I have kicking around and she now starts as she should! Drinks all around!

The only thing that concerns me is that water must be getting in there somehow. I've ordered a new seal set off eBay in the hope that keeps everything watertight.

cold start switch? cant remember if its the green or brown one on the water elbow (sure someone will correct me )

Without sounding thick as two short planks... What's one of these?

[Slarty]

I've read a lot of negative press about MCs, I'm interested to see where it comes from? I'm not saying you're incorrect - would just like to know a bit more. The only obvious thing to me is that they use a boot rather than a proper Toyota plastic connector. The way I see it is it's just an insulated piece of wire at the end of the day though?

Speaking from first hand experience, the plug end usually falls apart, leaving the metal conductor part of the lead on the plug as the lead comes away in your hands. I had this on a set I had on my GT4 (same engine) and I saw it first hand on a customers car whilst at Lukes (Skywalkers). I've also heard, but not witnessed, that they have a tendency to "pop off" during running as they have no vent hole on the top of the lead.

I know OEM leads are expensive, but realistically, you're probably only going to replace them once during your ownership so it's money well spent in my opinion.

cold start switch? cant remember if its the green or brown one on the water elbow (sure someone will correct me )

Without sounding thick as two short planks... What's one of these?

If you stand at the engine bay, on the passengers side and look just forward (towards the front of the car) a couple of inches from the distributor, you should see a cast aluminium "elbow" water pipe with the two sensors screwed into it. Have a look through the search and you should find a photo or two of it

[bobhatton]

For a start change the Magnecor leads back to standard Toyota ones. Magnecors are not the greatest and lots of people have had problems with them.

Never had any problems with Magnecor leads, been racing with them now for over 3 years with an MSD system and also my son with a stock system.

I would use them all the time over Toyota ones

[Loque]

Ok folks, I have a development to report. I've done a little digging about this cold start switch.

The closest thing I can find to it is this:


I've also read some things that state there isn't a Cold Start Switch on a Rev3+... Again, a little clarification would be appreciated. I wonder if there's a way of testing it too?

Worryingly, whilst I was on the hunt for said sensor I found this plug, not attached to anything. Anyone know what it does, or should be attached to?


Cheers

[Peter Gidden]

The closest thing I can find to it is this:
Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://s17.postimage.org/d89mrzvmn/WP_000090.jpg

There is no cold start switch in that photo. I see and oil pressure switch and an ECU temp sensor.

I've also read some things that state there isn't a Cold Start Switch on a Rev3+...

Correct.

[Slarty]

It would help if you state the revision of the car in question at the start of your posts or heaven forbid, fill in your profile with the revision.

[Loque]

Apologies about that, but yes it's a Rev3 NA. I should've stated earlier.