TRD rad cap and TRD oil filter! questions??

[jimGTS]

do these items actually improve anything above standard on the car??????
are they worth getting or is it purely cosmetic????

i know ebay do dodgy ones, so wont be getting any from there, where else can i get them??? (if there is a possitive response from the products above).

[cantfindausername]

The TRD Rad cap is rated to 1.2 bar I do beleive where as the OE one is 0.9 i think.

The rad cap combined with the oil cap give aprx 5whp afaik . Pretty pricey for the parts, but worth it if you're going for a dressy engine bay. Pretty cheap if you happen to be in Japan. I may get a few later in the year to flog when I get back.

[aaronjb]

do these items actually improve anything above standard on the car??????

In the case of the rad cap:

Unless you're running a hotter thermostat, or having overheating problems, or needing to run the engine at a higher temp than normal... no..

Running a higher pressure rad cap will let you run the water hotter before it expands so much that it barfs coolant into the overflow, basically. Which should help stop you getting air sucked back in if you're running hot, plus it'll stop the water boiling (and hence expanding) for longer. Assuming nothing else blows up first

[jimGTS]

The TRD Rad cap is rated to 1.2 bar I do beleive where as the OE one is 0.9 i think.

The rad cap combined with the oil cap give aprx 5whp afaik . Pretty pricey for the parts, but worth it if you're going for a dressy engine bay. Pretty cheap if you happen to be in Japan. I may get a few later in the year to flog when I get back.

5whp, you serious or is this a joke??

where can i get them??

[jimGTS]

do these items actually improve anything above standard on the car??????

In the case of the rad cap:

Unless you're running a hotter thermostat, or having overheating problems, or needing to run the engine at a higher temp than normal... no..

Running a higher pressure rad cap will let you run the water hotter before it expands so much that it barfs coolant into the overflow, basically. Which should help stop you getting air sucked back in if you're running hot, plus it'll stop the water boiling (and hence expanding) for longer. Assuming nothing else blows up first

im currently on 15psi, so are these bits a good idea??

[CosmosblueMR2]

The TRD Rad cap is rated to 1.2 bar I do beleive where as the OE one is 0.9 i think.

The rad cap combined with the oil cap give aprx 5whp afaik . Pretty pricey for the parts, but worth it if you're going for a dressy engine bay. Pretty cheap if you happen to be in Japan. I may get a few later in the year to flog when I get back.

TRD rad caps are rated 1.3 and 1.5bar maybe you can gat get a 1.2 one too dunno about that...

higher the rating on the pressure cap the higher the boiling point on the coolant = better cooling. - so no not just cosmetic Jim

[jimGTS]

The TRD Rad cap is rated to 1.2 bar I do beleive where as the OE one is 0.9 i think.

The rad cap combined with the oil cap give aprx 5whp afaik . Pretty pricey for the parts, but worth it if you're going for a dressy engine bay. Pretty cheap if you happen to be in Japan. I may get a few later in the year to flog when I get back.

TRD rad caps are rated 1.3 and 1.5bar maybe you can gat get a 1.2 one too dunno about that...

higher the rating on the pressure cap the higher the boiling point on the coolant = better cooling. - so no not just cosmetic Jim

where can i get one then sonny!?

[Lauren]

The TRD Rad cap is rated to 1.2 bar I do beleive where as the OE one is 0.9 i think.

The rad cap combined with the oil cap give aprx 5whp afaik . Pretty pricey for the parts, but worth it if you're going for a dressy engine bay. Pretty cheap if you happen to be in Japan. I may get a few later in the year to flog when I get back.

TRD rad caps are rated 1.3 and 1.5bar maybe you can gat get a 1.2 one too dunno about that...

higher the rating on the pressure cap the higher the boiling point on the coolant = better cooling. - so no not just cosmetic Jim

where can i get one then sonny!?

Fensport do them IIRC £22ish

[jimGTS]

sounds like the rad cap may be worth it, what about the plugs and leads they sell??? are these any good??? (may as well buy in bulk, you no what there delivery prices are like).

but is the trd oil filter werth it?? as its changed every 3-4k miles???

[CosmosblueMR2]

but make sure your coolant system is upto taking the extra pressure... 0.9bar ... upto 1.5bar - otherwise it will get messy

[jimGTS]

but make sure your coolant system is upto taking the extra pressure... 0.9bar ... upto 1.5bar - otherwise it will get messy

eh??
how would i know that???
(have got a coolent change coming up soon).

[Lauren]

sounds like the rad cap may be worth it, what about the plugs and leads they sell??? are these any good??? (may as well buy in bulk, you no what there delivery prices are like).

but is the trd oil filter werth it?? as its changed every 3-4k miles???

I would say the TRD filter is a waste of time. Likewise for the leads and plus, you are just paying for Blong tbh.

OEM leads are more than sufficient. I guess teh TRD ones won't be any worse, but they may be more expensive. Remember OEM leads are close on £100 so i'd weigh up the costs as you may find TRD ones are in fact cheaper! Order from the states its always way cheaper that way.

Anything we need that is over say £50 gets ordered from teh US.

[jimGTS]

sounds like the rad cap may be worth it, what about the plugs and leads they sell??? are these any good??? (may as well buy in bulk, you no what there delivery prices are like).

but is the trd oil filter werth it?? as its changed every 3-4k miles???

I would say the TRD filter is a waste of time. Likewise for the leads and plus, you are just paying for Blong tbh.

OEM leads are more than sufficient. I guess teh TRD ones won't be any worse, but they may be more expensive. Remember OEM leads are close on £100 so i'd weigh up the costs as you may find TRD ones are in fact cheaper! Order from the states its always way cheaper that way.

Anything we need that is over say £50 gets ordered from teh US.

oh i didnt mean trd leads and plugs as well, i just ment the general uprated stuff they sell.
(so i can buy in bulk).

[CosmosblueMR2]

but make sure your coolant system is upto taking the extra pressure... 0.9bar ... upto 1.5bar - otherwise it will get messy

eh??
how would i know that???
(have got a coolent change coming up soon).

just make sure all your pipes are in good nick... and all clips are woking properly etc etc just the general condition - so you don't spring a leak what with upping the pressure in the coolant system.

[jimGTS]

but make sure your coolant system is upto taking the extra pressure... 0.9bar ... upto 1.5bar - otherwise it will get messy

eh??
how would i know that???
(have got a coolent change coming up soon).

just make sure all your pipes are in good nick... and all clips are woking properly etc etc just the general condition - so you don't spring a leak what with upping the pressure in the coolant system.

im getting the boys at 3S to do a once over anyway mate.
ill see bout the cap, im not sure yet.
(need to be on a RR again! hopefully new leads, plugs, coolent change, gearbox oil change, extremeboost exhaust and downpipe!!) woohoo, 500bhp here we come!!

[Shmed]

Wow, the search function! Awesome! Yesterday, I decided to take the 2 to work to enjoy the last swansong of the summer. I got close to the motorway and then noticed the engine temp was high. Glanced in the rear view mirror and saw steam whipping out the engine bay so quickly pulled over and killed the engine.

I have a few pieces of bespoke heater pipe, and also a Blitz 1.3 bar water cap, and TRD low temp thermostat, and I have also raised the rev limit to about 7500k redline (so water pump will spin faster, which I guess would create more pressure, if it weren't regulated by the filler cap?!).

Turns out that one of my bepsoke pieces of pipe hasn't got welding 'bead' to stop pipe slipping off, and now my coolant is gone. When I got home, I noticed a pool of coolant on the drive where the car was parked overnight, and a trail of coolant going up the road, so I think the pipe had popped off overnight (after I gave it a spirited drive to footy on wed night).

So anyway, to cut to the chase:

1. Is the higher pressure actually beneficial in a highly tuned motor?
2. Does the pressure 'surge' when you turn the car off? I think I read somewhere that once the system is no longer under pressure, the water boils up
3. Will it happen again if I make sure the jubilees etc are tighter?

[JeffD]

If you go onto the TRD parts site here:

http://trdparts.jp/english/list_mr2.html

and click on the name of the part it tells you all about it eg.

Radiator cap:

http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_radi-cap.html

Oil filter

http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_oil-filter.htm

Ignition leads etc

http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_plug-cord.html

[Peter Gidden]

1. Is the higher pressure actually beneficial in a highly tuned motor?

In theory, possibly. In practice, on a street engine, benefits are questionable. But everyone knows anything with TRD or Blitz printed on it is faster

2. Does the pressure 'surge' when you turn the car off? I think I read somewhere that once the system is no longer under pressure, the water boils up

The boiling of the water in the head/block after switching off has nothing to do with pressure. Since the water flow has stopped, the heat in the head/block continues to heat the water. Since the water is not being circulated it overheats, and boils.

3. Will it happen again if I make sure the jubilees etc are tighter?

Your problem was most likely caused by a lack of bead on your pipe, as you have already stated.

Make sure all pipes have beads, and that all clips are tight, and if all else is ok too, you should have no further problems with your cooling system.

[bobhatton]

Wow, the search function! Awesome! Yesterday, I decided to take the 2 to work to enjoy the last swansong of the summer. I got close to the motorway and then noticed the engine temp was high. Glanced in the rear view mirror and saw steam whipping out the engine bay so quickly pulled over and killed the engine.

I have a few pieces of bespoke heater pipe, and also a Blitz 1.3 bar water cap, and TRD low temp thermostat, and I have also raised the rev limit to about 7500k redline (so water pump will spin faster, which I guess would create more pressure, if it weren't regulated by the filler cap?!).

Turns out that one of my bepsoke pieces of pipe hasn't got welding 'bead' to stop pipe slipping off, and now my coolant is gone. When I got home, I noticed a pool of coolant on the drive where the car was parked overnight, and a trail of coolant going up the road, so I think the pipe had popped off overnight (after I gave it a spirited drive to footy on wed night).

So anyway, to cut to the chase:

1. Is the higher pressure actually beneficial in a highly tuned motor?
2. Does the pressure 'surge' when you turn the car off? I think I read somewhere that once the system is no longer under pressure, the water boils up
3. Will it happen again if I make sure the jubilees etc are tighter?

The pressure in the cooling system has nothing to do with the water pump, that just pushes the water through the engine, up to the rad and back again.

The pressure comes from the heating of the water and its expansion, so a higher pressure cap is a good thing as it will stop any chance of the water boiling.

[Super_red]

And the pressure means the water can be over 100+ degrees and not boiling. If you remove the cap or a pipe slips off the water can instantly boil since its already hot enough (super heated) but the pressure stops it boiling by raising its boiling point. More pressure means a higher boiling point. Water in a cooling system should never boil.

This is why you dont remove the cap when the engine is hot, the water can instanly boil and its this that forces it out of the header tank.