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Here you go, this is a
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"brake setup vs brake setup" comparison, not an overall car study
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- so this ignores everything other than the caliper/pad/disc.
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Here are four example setups that work, as well as the original Rev 1 and and Rev 2> numbers.
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Standard Rev 1 Mk2:
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![Image](http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk159/keri-wms/bias/SW20-R1-OEM.gif)
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Standard Rev 2 Mk2:
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![Image](http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk159/keri-wms/bias/SW20-R2-OEM.gif)
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The Rev 2 was fitted to my car and used as a starting reference, including a few laps of the Nurburgring.
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.
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.
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.so that's the standard cars, here are the upgraded options.
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.
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.
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.
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Rev 2 rear brakes matched with 298.5mm disc
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/ 1.38" piston WMS kit, what most people would use I'd have thought:
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![Image](http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk159/keri-wms/bias/SW20-R2-1_38-4P018.gif)
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This setup was tested by me on my own car, in a range of conditions from summer to winter, and also at Brands hatch.
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Rev 1 rear brakes matched with 298.5mm disc
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/ 1.25" piston WMS kit, handy to know it works:
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![Image](http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk159/keri-wms/bias/SW20-R1-1_25-4P018.gif)
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-------------- the ones below don't have a handbrake
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(WMS 4 pot front and rear) so are full-race only
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Maintains bais, might have a soft pedal:
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![Image](http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk159/keri-wms/bias/SW20-1_75-4P018-1_38-rear.gif)
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Increases front bias, medium pedal:
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![Image](http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk159/keri-wms/bias/SW20-1_75-4P018-1_25-rear.gif)
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Increases rear bias, best pedal:
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![Image](http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk159/keri-wms/bias/SW20-1_38-4P018-1_25-rear.gif)
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The race F+R kit has been used and was a huge improvement on a car in the Nippon Challenge, and a WMS kit helped a TVR Tasmin to win the 2011 Dunlop TVR Challenge Championship outright, beating much more modern TVRs in the process.
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