WET HEADLINING..... NOT ANYMORE !!!

[jiggs]

Part number of trim clips/pegs 90189-04029.

[Tony jinxy froude]

Part number without the black band underneath is written in the article Toyota Part No 90168 40061 , i have a full set of these pegs if anyone is interested except the oval centre tail ones, cheers, Jinxy

[Grendel]

Limey is going to give me a hand doing this to my T-Bar since at present I’m changing the towels on the seats every 48hrs with all the heavy rain.

But can you tell me how many parts I need to order from Toyota?

Screws: 90168-40061 x12

Peg/clips: 90189-04029 x????

Anything else i need?

[mrfil13]

Excellent guide, i need to do this as mine is leaking. I guess there are no drain pipes like on the mk2.

My first stumbling block though is that one of the screws that holds in the rear mirror is rusted to hell, doubt that would come out in one piece. Fastening it back on with tiger seal might be abit of a risk i imagine.

[Jim-SR]

Limey is going to give me a hand doing this to my T-Bar since at present I’m changing the towels on the seats every 48hrs with all the heavy rain.

But can you tell me how many parts I need to order from Toyota?

Screws: 90168-40061 x12

Peg/clips: 90189-04029 x????

Anything else i need?

dont bother with the screws, re-use the existing ones. there are 2 types of clips, one set for the centre which are oval shaped iirc, and the square ones for everywhere else. cant remember numbers but you can add them up from the EPC pictures. you dont actually need new clips really, you can remove the rubber gasket bits from the old ones and re-use them with silicone.

the problem youll find is that the centre bar will have sheared its studs. no matter how well you seal it all up, a few months down the line it will work loose again and leak through the middle. i dont know if you can get replacement centre pieces, but even if you can theyll just shear their studs again somewhere down the line.

[cartledge_uk]

the problem youll find is that the centre bar will have sheared its studs. no matter how well you seal it all up, a few months down the line it will work loose again and leak through the middle. i dont know if you can get replacement centre pieces, but even if you can theyll just shear their studs again somewhere down the line.

Do you think it would work if its spot welded on? drill a few holes and spot weld it up.

(I have no idea, never seen a Tbar without the headlining so I could be completely wrong)

[Jim-SR]

not sure you could weld it very well because its really thin metal and plated, and probably still not. if its snapping studs then id imagine it will snap welds just as easily. its where the roof flexes so much. i dont think theres a cure for it. just replace the centre piece and hope it lasts. it would be interesting to know how long they lasted from brand new. but at the same time the chassis is probably a lot more flexible now than it was from the factory 20+ years ago.

maybe a proper roll cage is the solution!!

the other possible fix was discussed in that thread about the 1-piece roof without a t-bar across it. i jokingly said in that thread that it might be a fix for the leaky t-bar, since its easy to seal the front and back of the glass, its through the middle between the 2 panes that it always leaks. i was mostly joking, but i think theres genuine merit in the idea.

[Grendel]

Got my screws and clips curtsy of Jinxy at a very good price. Just need a dry mild day to take the roof apart to do it now.

[Grendel]

Well followed the guide as stated (Without removing roof lining) and I can confirm it's not a quick easy job. Took me near 3 hours mainly due to removing the old rust screws which had corroded so badly they had o be snapped off to get them out. But half a tube of sealant and lots of silicon spray to help re-assemble it is all done. Just need a nice heavy rainstorm to test if its water proof now (and to wash off the overspray of silicon spray)

[mrfil13]

Did mine today, only screw that was knackered was one in the centre pillar, fortunately rust enough just to pull apart.

Used tigerseal on all the clips and silicone sealant for the rest.

Fingers crossed

[elbon50]

Am still into the top & side of my car Mrfil

Have found that the spotwelds that hold the little crosspieces to the central bar (that the edges of the glass panels tuck under) have broken away. Shall have to do a repair or get a replacement bar

Still cannot find how the water that drips from the bottom of the A-post, gets in, in the first place

Poured water through the holes where the T-bar plastic clips fit into the roof but no, came out elsewhere, not from bottom of A-post

The mystery continues

Peter

[mrfil13]

Those holes that have the clips have the headlining below. I imagine the most likely way of water getting in to the a pillar from the roof is the bolt that the tbar lock goes througj.

[elbon50]

Those holes that have the clips have the headlining below.

True, I like to experiment though. The most of the water I poured in came out of a seam in the bottom of the windscreen pillar

I imagine the most likely way of water getting in to the a pillar from the roof is the bolt that the tbar lock goes througj.

The bolt hole is a bracket fastened to the top of the pillar by a set screw & stud/nut. No way into the windscreen pillar from that

Peter

[richbay]

excellent write up, thanks for putting in the time to do this

[Jedd]

Great guide! Thanks for taking the time to make it, once im done with the 1001 other things that need fixing I will tackle this one

[greglebon]

Just read through this....!

Now when I did mine (bear in mind its about 7 years ago since I had my T-bar! ), I had the same problem with the studded sections rusting away from the t bar panel.
(got fed up with getting a lapful of dirty water every time I turned left! )

What I did (iirc) was to drill holes next to the broken welds, and use M2x6 stainless steel machine screws to reattach the mounting plates..?

Bit fiddly, iirc, but once its done, everything goes together 100%.
Once you find this problem, it becomes clear that whatever you do otherwise, your repair is never gonna be 100% until you fix the issue......

I refreshed the rubberseals with that German "Phlege"(?) stuff, too.
I used a minimal amount of silicone sealant (you dont need much when the studs are doing their job!), around the T-bar bits.....

Never leaked again, not in the 3 years I had it.....

If my description is not clear, post a few pics of the bits, and it'll refresh my memory....

[elbon50]

I had the same problem with the studded sections rusting away from the t bar panel.
(got fed up with getting a lapful of dirty water every time I turned left! )

What I did (iirc) was to drill holes next to the broken welds, and use M2x6 stainless steel machine screws to reattach the mounting plates

Am I correct, are you referring to the channel bar in the centre of the roof Greg ?

The thing that the edge of each glass panel slots into ?

Mine is broken away from the mounting plates. I havn't fixed it yet

Still getting some leaks from the T-bar area

Peter

[greglebon]

Yes, Peter.

The channel that is welded to the front/rear of the roof has the 3 (or 4?) holes for the M6 (?) studs that bolt the black outside piece onto the channel. They're accessed from underneath by removing the headlining.

All but one of mine had failed at the welds (2 on each bracket / stud).

Jinxy's pictures 10-13 show the part I'm referring to, and the detached stud...!

If these have detached themselves from the top bar, then there will always be a gap. allowing water into the welded channel.
You can Sikaflex / silicone seal all you want, but I reckon the movement of the chassis will loosen whatever you stick it with over time, anyway....?

..and unless the metal surfaces you stick the silicone / sikaflex to are SPOTLESSLY clean, it'll not stick for long anyway...especially if its immersed in water / damp most of the time......?

This repair is fundamental to fixing the T-bar leaks, as its the "hidden" part that you have to look deeper to find, and is often overlooked.....?

Its far easier to drown everything in silicone sealant, after all....!?

[elbon50]

Yes both of the spotwelds on all of the stud brackets have failed on mine Greg

The black outside piece is completely detached

Did you remove your headlining & then remove the stud brackets

Or were you able to drill them in situ on the car

Did you use screws & nuts to fasten them

Peter

[greglebon]

Yes, no and yes..!

I totally removed the black part, undid the nuts and removed the broken stud mounts from their locations.

After drilling the holes in each end, I bolted them to the black section with machine screws: iirc, I had to file them down to around 4mm in length to get them in properly...I used nuts on the back, to ensure a decent fix...!

They were tiny M2's: I can send you some if you need them, as I'm sure i have some in a bag somewhere, along with the nuts...?

Actually, thinking back, I'm sure there was some Araldite used somewhere, too...but I cant remember where...!?

Probably to bond / seal everything after I'd bolted them on......?
(If in doubt...over-engineer it...!)