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..so I took it of and all looked well, when re fitting I noticed that although it wound in fully, the securing clamp on the head wasn't gripping the dizzy neck...at all, I had a few retry's...put a washer on the bolt in case it had stretched...now the star drive is pretty much mashed and in need of a new bolt...maybe some kind of a build up inbetween the clamp face surfaces? When I used the oem o ring it leaked."securing clamp"? I've always used a bit of Vaseline to stop it grabbing, and never had a new one leak.... No need to as Luke says. If you do, replace the bolts with hex bolts...the bolt was wound in tightly, but wasn't clamping the dizzy in place and it rotated freely. I changed the o ring a while back, I'm sure it's nothing more than crap stuck in a hole, sealed it up with a bit of silicone for now and will get some new bolts tmrw... - Good. Which are slackened by a turn when adjusting ignition timing. It is these you refer to?..only slackened off the rear of the 2 star drive cap bolts...all of the faces are clean and free from dirt, just very clean, fresh oil dribbling onto the gearbox...removed the lower 2, 14mm bolts and then pulled the dizzy out.( outer side )....it's stopped the leak for now...should the dizzy be "locked into place" with the cap or should it still be moveable? It will only go in 1 way.Skywalker wrote:Sounds like u haven't lined up the dizzy to intake cam? Remove cap, turn rotor until it slots all the way in.
..it's as flush as you like, all tightened up...the silicone has stopped the dribble so it's just not tightening up fully...new bolts tmrw when I can get out and get some."cam cap" that bolts down onto the dizzy and found that the distributor still rotates. If that's the case then don't worry as that is how it should be. If it did clamp everything up tight then we wouldn't be able to adjust the timing without first removing the rocker cover etc...cheers wingers...still leaks though...unless it's not that and there is another leaky spot around there, it's not the rocker box cover cos I 've just done that and sealed the cam corners...I got hold of some o-rings that are a bit beefier, I'll try one of those next. If there is decent oring compression then it should seal fine and any leaks will most likely be from elsewhere. The groove which the oring sits in has broken through so the dizzy housing was effectively in two parts. It struck me as an unlikely failure so it could be a one-off but worth checking for none-the-less...I have a spare dizzy/engine...so most things are evident when offering up parts on those...I have tried the spare dizzy, which also leaks...pointing towards the cap not quite tightening down enough I reckon. As long as the diameter is smooth (lines up properly) and you can't get a feeler gauge in the splitline then it should be ok. I'm not sure if it's possible to fit the cap the wrong way round but that would be worth cheking. Give the rest a good once over at the same time and maybe go for a bit of silicon sealant where required. , just cracked and slackened off one side to release the grip...I think I have managed to wedge a bit of stuff in there when I was cleaning the hole out....that or the leaking oil had washed a piece of debris in there...either way, today is the day when I have time to do stuff...so I'll get on it...thanks for your help...Ironic that as you fix one oil leak you find another...an eye for an eye...lol- chasing oil leaks around the engine bay can be a full time job!..it seems to be coming from the block/head...unlikely that it's oozing through the metal...but deffo from that area, traces of oil closer to the turbo than could be possible if it were the dizzy, plus the dizzy is dry as a bone.( chipped blades/no power ) and replace with a ct26, when it's all off...I should be able to see a lot more.?
..I really hope it's that now, it did explode a while back, easy enough to replace...not sure if I used any ptfe or owt...good man anyways...Gaz, you and the family have a great start to the new year and remember,£50...LOL...pop round and collect ah kid.