Running lumpy after thermostat replacement

[klimite]

Hey, right after much hassle trying to get the housing off to replace thermostat

I flushed the system through with water while it was off, then put in therm, and put it all back together, I filled up with water (will replace, just dont want coolant everywhere atm) and started it up, it ran at about 1500rpm for a while then dropped down and the temp raised to just under half way, then the car started running really lumpy, I gently brought the revs up an it was a little hesitant and felt lumpy.

anyway, do you think it has an air lock or have I fooked something? I was thinking about removing the cap that sits next to the filler cap and running the engine to see if will remove any air pockets.

anyway I thought I'd ask first because I'm new to these cars/ engines

Cheers.

[alanmr2turbo]

Sounds like an air block somewhere

You did fill the system up correctly using the 2 tubes 1 attached to the Rad bleed nipple and other 2 the heater nipple?

[klimite]

erm, that'll be a no from the sounds of it, you got a pic to clear it up?

also my car is a n/a import.

[alanmr2turbo]

here we go. Its the same process on all N/a and Turbos

Pics and walk through

http://www.lovehorsepower.com/MR2_Docs/ ... system.htm

[Super_red]

Could be the exhaust oxygen sensor come unplugged as its in that general area and will make a difference to the way the cars runs only once its up to temperature, it does not fuel on the lambda when its cold.

[djpkins]

did you line the toggle up with the notch on the housing? bleeding is easy as long as you leave it untill it's propperly warmed up and coolant is flowing...maybe do it again anyway mate.

[klimite]

Right from looking at the link removing the air locks etc seems like a lot of p1$$ing about!, but....I shall do so tomorrow, I should have a load of hose that will fit...(he says)

[djpkins]

undo the filler cap 1 click, attach the bleed hoses to the rad and heater points...undo...start/heater to hot ...wait...thats it matey.

[klimite]

my filler cap has a rubber seal though? surely one click wont do anything?

[djpkins]

release da pressure man...

[klimite]

hmm okay i flushed it again run it with cap off and the hosing for a while released a load of bubbles, went for a cold run all was okay, went for a hot run an all hell broke loose!!!

water and steam out of the engine bay from the overflow pipe on the overflow tank. temp needle went into red, then engine overheat pipe etc came on..

I opened the valve on the rad and let out some pressure and coolant a few times (kept having to stop on the way home) and it helped but the last time nout came out and it ran like a dog..

I think the new thermostat is not right..... it's smaller than the one I took out but still fitted? I got it from jap-parts so assumed it'll be okay? anyway I was thinking of cleaning the original an putting that back in? it ran a lot better with the old one and the temp needle never went up it just smelt hot at times?

[alanmr2turbo]

there are 2 types of thermostate REV1&2 and REV3+ I think you have the REV3

[klimite]

ahhh thank you, I think they got it wrong on there side I assumed (never assume...you know the rest) that it was redesigned etc as they sometimes do with new parts

[djpkins]

mate...just buy one from Camskill...£7 or something, ask for Mike, just tell him which revision you have and he'll do the rest....you can't have a fkd thermostat on these cars man, never run right...don't forget to line the toggle up.

[klimite]

yeah I'll wack the old one back in to make sure its not fooked anything else up as that did work okay It props didnt have enough coolant -> water...so if thats all okay I'll get a new one and swap it over...

(I will boil test the old one first)

[klimite]

Right after much arsing about I put the old therm back in (which is working find....typical hah) bled it all removed the air locks all all is fine (I think)

it's still rather warm but after closer inspection most of the rad is collapsed!! so I will have to swap that over, two questions are....one do I need to remove the bumper to swap the rad? and two. what rad should I get? are there any recommended ones?

[BenF]

Its been a long, long time since I did my Mk2 Rad but I'm fairly sure you can get it out without taking the front bumper off.

Replacement - have to say I'd get one from MrT. A radiator isn't something I'd like to fit a pattern part for.

One other tip - the coolant bleed taps at the top of the rad almost always leak after you've opened them for the first time in years. MrT does sell a replacement washer for the plug which is only a few pence - replace that at the same time.

[klimite]

Sorry to sound like a dumb ass but I'm still new here...MrT is?

[Harold]

Toyota.

[cvega666]

you do not need to remove the bumper to get the rad out. Two brackets on top come off, fans out, and the radiator comes out without a huge hassle, a bit of a fiddly job though.