Basically, my oil temperature is very very low.
I do have a grex kit which i think is the culprit, but having sealed the cooler with foil, its still only reading around 60-65 celsius, even after some heavy driving at 1.2bar. i know this is dangerous having cold oil. I would like to remove this anyway, but unsure how to go about plugging the hole left on the sandwich plate.
Im hoping the temp gauge is faulty, but this does fluctuate enough to make me think its ok, just maybe uncalibrated, if there is such a problem?
furthermore, the water gauge never gets above a third, below the normal half way operating temperature, Have a 1.3 bar coolant cap, will this be the problem here?
Oil temperature woes.
Moderators: IMOC Moderators, IMOC Committee Members
Re: Oil temperature woes.
Remove the sandwich plate and put the system back to stock. Fit new Toyota water stat
Designer for turbo set ups on F1 cars, and Nitrous Oxide Systems of the USA in the 80s
Re: Oil temperature woes.
Having a higher rated coolant cap shouldn't affect things -the higher pressure rating means it'll just vent at the higher pressure over a stock one. You need to be running some much higher power to need an uprated coolant cap.
If you're taking the oil cooler off then just take the sandwich plate off. In my experience anyway plate ports are either M10 or 1/8"bsp -but they can come with anything in them. If it's not needed for anything else just unscrew the central part then remove it and the plate should come free and screw in a normal filter as usual. Engine oil needs to be at about 85 deg, or 5-10 deg above water temp nominally in my oppinion otherwise it's not really up to "operating" temp.
Late thought -your sandwich plate doesn't have a thermostat in it does it? The stat might be duff and stuck open. You'd have to look up replacement parts if you take the plate / cooler out of the loop and find you have high temps otherwise. The best way Ive been advised to check odd temps in the past is with a cheap IR thermometer if you're concerned about anything.
If you're taking the oil cooler off then just take the sandwich plate off. In my experience anyway plate ports are either M10 or 1/8"bsp -but they can come with anything in them. If it's not needed for anything else just unscrew the central part then remove it and the plate should come free and screw in a normal filter as usual. Engine oil needs to be at about 85 deg, or 5-10 deg above water temp nominally in my oppinion otherwise it's not really up to "operating" temp.
Late thought -your sandwich plate doesn't have a thermostat in it does it? The stat might be duff and stuck open. You'd have to look up replacement parts if you take the plate / cooler out of the loop and find you have high temps otherwise. The best way Ive been advised to check odd temps in the past is with a cheap IR thermometer if you're concerned about anything.
Re: Oil temperature woes.
it does have a thermostat yes, but whether it works or not...
The plate has oil temp and pressure running off it, so i only want to take the cooler off really, just need to block off the cooler line into it.
Looking at the mods on the car, i think it was used as a drift car in japan before import last year, of course these things are wasted on my driving needs, so i think its all gotta come off!
The plate has oil temp and pressure running off it, so i only want to take the cooler off really, just need to block off the cooler line into it.
Looking at the mods on the car, i think it was used as a drift car in japan before import last year, of course these things are wasted on my driving needs, so i think its all gotta come off!
Re: Oil temperature woes.
I'll have it off you if you want to get rid of it!!...
Re: Oil temperature woes.
Looking at your mods this would help alot!
When i take it off i'll pm you.
When i take it off i'll pm you.
Re: Oil temperature woes.
U not wrong thier matey... My oil temps get to 120-125.c on a good thrash.. To high IMHO... That's one of the reasons I've backed the boost off for now....
Re: Oil temperature woes.
Dangerous wrote:U not wrong thier matey... My oil temps get to 120-125.c on a good thrash.. To high IMHO... That's one of the reasons I've backed the boost off for now....
hi mate
what power are you running at the moment?
Re: Oil temperature woes.
T.F.S. wrote:Dangerous wrote:U not wrong thier matey... My oil temps get to 120-125.c on a good thrash.. To high IMHO... That's one of the reasons I've backed the boost off for now....
hi mate
what power are you running at the moment?
Well after my 3rd engine build I'm only running 300@hubs but the boost is set to off...(.8 bar Wastegate spring).. letting things settle down a bit... Do some more mods for reliability (i.e big alloy rad with Evans nrpg coolant,external oil cooler) re torque the head bolts then gradually increase the boost... My turbo rated for upto 700hp but the exhaust housing needs to be a little larger as I think it's creating to much heat.... Was still running upto 25' ignition advance at 2 bar boost last time... But... It was dogged from the start...I now believe it was lifting the head under high boost which eventually led to head gasket failure then block liners failing... Not good....
Re: Oil temperature woes.
110 is about the most you want to run continuously on most engine oils. They'll still be capable of allot more, but that's a regular continuous spec and the higher the temp, the quicker you need to change it. There should be a tie-in between oil and water temp somewhere in my books, you want to keep oil temp between 10 and 20'odd degrees above water temp in my experience (10-15 deg above water temp but below 110 is good for me as a regular day norm but with plenty of pushes).