Spent 4 hours with the following on my car in various combinations :
Autoglym Super Resin Polish
Zymol Cleaner Wax
Turtle wax paint restorer
Carplan Triple Wax
and finally T-Cut
Hand applied and with rotary polisher
I've cut, polished and waxed the rear quarter to bu88ery and it still looks flat and faded.... any suggestions, should I just get the wet & dry out now? I might just pour paint stripper on it
I GIVE UP!
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Re: I GIVE UP!
what colour?, red?
looking at your garage i think it is...start off with the t cut on the rotary, just do a small area, dont let it go dry, medium speed
then take that off with the rag and apply some wax to your small area, dry, remove
if that does not make any difference then you may as well try the following on a small area
in this order
200 grit wet and dry (wet)
rotary rubbing compound
rotary polish
rotary/hand wax
i did a thread on it a while back
looking at your garage i think it is...start off with the t cut on the rotary, just do a small area, dont let it go dry, medium speed
then take that off with the rag and apply some wax to your small area, dry, remove
if that does not make any difference then you may as well try the following on a small area
in this order
200 grit wet and dry (wet)
rotary rubbing compound
rotary polish
rotary/hand wax
i did a thread on it a while back
Re: I GIVE UP!
As above, just use G3 with a rotary polisher, make sure that you sprinkle the pad with water before hand and be careful not to burn through the paint or burn the paint.
Re: I GIVE UP!
I've done an old crapy BMW restor so far. We didn't machine polish it but what we did do was cut the paint back very slightly with 3M "Finess it" by hand then put a coat of coloured turtlewax on it with a 2" paint brush, then waxed it on top, then coated it with turtlewax coloured stuff again -with the brush, we did this about 6 ot 7 times over 2 days and it took a sorry assed pink BMW right back to bright red at the end of it. I never would have believed it if I hadn't seen it myself. It wasn't perfect but the difference was unreal.
The car looked a scrapper before then looked damn decent afterwards. The owner took it over the "lecht" in the Cairngorms the following weekend and the clyinder head gasket blew and it was fooked (260k miles is enough to give I guess, regardless of the car). LoL.
The car looked a scrapper before then looked damn decent afterwards. The owner took it over the "lecht" in the Cairngorms the following weekend and the clyinder head gasket blew and it was fooked (260k miles is enough to give I guess, regardless of the car). LoL.
Re: I GIVE UP!
I'm thinking to go for something a bit harsher to start with such as Rubbing Compound or G3 and work up to TCut and then wax.
We'll see this weekend what happens... at least there's no danger of cutting through the paint as it's got at least two if not 3 coats of red under there
We'll see this weekend what happens... at least there's no danger of cutting through the paint as it's got at least two if not 3 coats of red under there
Re: I GIVE UP!
Well I went for it on the wing and door this evening.
Exhibit A :
Bonet.... dull and a bit orangy
Exhibit B :
The wing after the following treatment :
Rubbing Compound - Applied with buffer
Triplewax (polish & wax) - Applied with buffer
Zymol wax - applied by hand
I think it looks a ton better... now if I can do a wing and a door in 1 hour how long will it take to do a whole car
Exhibit A :
Bonet.... dull and a bit orangy
Exhibit B :
The wing after the following treatment :
Rubbing Compound - Applied with buffer
Triplewax (polish & wax) - Applied with buffer
Zymol wax - applied by hand
I think it looks a ton better... now if I can do a wing and a door in 1 hour how long will it take to do a whole car
Re: I GIVE UP!
T.F.S. wrote:
200 grit wet and dry (wet)
rotary rubbing compound
rotary polish
rotary/hand wax
i did a thread on it a while back
im sure you meant 2000 grit but for oxidised paint 2500 is fine too; heck even 3000. the higher the grade the easier it is to buff. in reality you shouldnt need to wet sand as that is really only to get rid of light scratches and orange peel.
G3/3m fast cut are excellent but too course for this type of work. you have a higher chance of leaving swirls and holograms (more work).
G10 is what i use for oxidisation; followed by a polish (Farecla final polish).....
Re: I GIVE UP!
nice results. i'll post some of my fun with g3 up at some point - its a difficult product to use but now i make an average of a btl of vodka a week fixing mates of mates cars etc lol
also wouldnt recommend any ameteurs playing about with rotary buffers - start with a da, build confidence and work up. a good cutting pad is also a must - chemical guys stuff is very cost effective.
also wouldnt recommend any ameteurs playing about with rotary buffers - start with a da, build confidence and work up. a good cutting pad is also a must - chemical guys stuff is very cost effective.
Re: I GIVE UP!
Raf wrote:T.F.S. wrote:
200 grit wet and dry (wet)
rotary rubbing compound
rotary polish
rotary/hand wax
i did a thread on it a while back
im sure you meant 2000 grit but for oxidised paint 2500 is fine too; heck even 3000. the higher the grade the easier it is to buff. in reality you shouldnt need to wet sand as that is really only to get rid of light scratches and orange peel.
sorry yes i did mean 2000 grit
Re: I GIVE UP!
thing with DA's is that yes they are good but then when you use a rotary its just so much better. you are best learning on a rotary in my opinion.
now all top coats are different, some being scratch resistant and hence tough to cut and buff. some being softer and glossier. however you have to generally be an idiot to burn through (unless you have had the car painted and there is hardly any material on).
yes its easy to burn through on edges and style lines but these can be taped up and a DA can burn through them also. once you get the hang of it you can adjust speeds/pressure as you approach edges and style lines.
have you ever tried a scrap panel and tried burning through? it takes a while & a fair amount of pressure.
another tip would be to buy a lightweight buffer; proper paint correction is time consuming and a heavy buffer doesnt help.
now all top coats are different, some being scratch resistant and hence tough to cut and buff. some being softer and glossier. however you have to generally be an idiot to burn through (unless you have had the car painted and there is hardly any material on).
yes its easy to burn through on edges and style lines but these can be taped up and a DA can burn through them also. once you get the hang of it you can adjust speeds/pressure as you approach edges and style lines.
have you ever tried a scrap panel and tried burning through? it takes a while & a fair amount of pressure.
another tip would be to buy a lightweight buffer; proper paint correction is time consuming and a heavy buffer doesnt help.
Re: I GIVE UP!
Well the bit I did last week is starting to fade along the top edge again despite waxing, anyone got any suggestions to seal the paintwork to prevent oxidation, i'm not really rating the zymol wax?
Re: I GIVE UP!
sounds like you need to cut into it more TBH
i use 3M stuff...they make some awesome products
for a quick shine i would just use Tcut and then 3M rosa
i use 3M stuff...they make some awesome products
for a quick shine i would just use Tcut and then 3M rosa
Re: I GIVE UP!
the very top layer of paint is oxidised; you cannot wax and hope the finish stays. you need to get rid of the top layer so compounding (G3/3m Fast cut/Tcut etc) has to be done first; the finish after this step should be spot on. then you want to use a polish with some fillers in; then seal that with a wax.
Re: I GIVE UP!
Raf wrote:the very top layer of paint is oxidised; you cannot wax and hope the finish stays. you need to get rid of the top layer so compounding (G3/3m Fast cut/Tcut etc) has to be done first; the finish after this step should be spot on. then you want to use a polish with some fillers in; then seal that with a wax.
I did cut it first, then triplewax polish then zymol wax. The finish was looking spot on but it seems to have faded some what over the week.
Re: I GIVE UP!
Goldy wrote:
I did cut it first, then triplewax polish then zymol wax. The finish was looking spot on but it seems to have faded some what over the week.
you didnt cut enough mate
Re: I GIVE UP!
T.F.S. wrote:Goldy wrote:
I did cut it first, then triplewax polish then zymol wax. The finish was looking spot on but it seems to have faded some what over the week.
you didnt cut enough mate
Right back to the buffer I go then