Would it be easier to bolt manifold back to turbo THEN onto the head, or Manifold then turbo then DP?
OR can I assemble Mani, Turbo and Downpipe together first and fit as one? (hopeing so)
Manifold and turbo are standard, DP is aftermarket.
Cheers
Easiest way to put Manifold/turbo back on
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Easiest way to put Manifold/turbo back on
Last edited by mattgt on Mon Apr 11, 2011 5:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1994 Astral Black Rev3 Turbo
HKS Induction > HKS SSQV > Greddy intercooler > Berk Downpipe > Blitz Nur-Spec> 2x Magic tree
HKS Induction > HKS SSQV > Greddy intercooler > Berk Downpipe > Blitz Nur-Spec> 2x Magic tree
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Re: Easiest way to put Manifold/turbo back on
just done this job myself on a rev 3 turbo
yep you can and I would (did) assemble turbo, manifold and down pipe (berk) then lower it into place. ask a mate to help take some of the weight from under the car it'll help.
note we had problems with the turbo oil feed pipe and or banjo bolt (engine side) we couldn't stop it leaking or figure out why it was. we had it on and off 3 or 4 times. everything looked fine no leaks when off etc
Id recommend a new oil feed pipe and banjo bolt as that's what fixed it in the end. i also used copper washers that they use on rx7s as the metal ones from Toyota were, one crap and two a fiver each.
you can give the old ones a go first mind as you can get to the oil feed when everythings in place if you need to take it off. it was however a nightmare job.
you'll need to leave the turbo support bracket off till you've tightened the oil feed banjo bolt. you'll also need a deep 19mm socket and small ish drive to avoid the down pipe when tightening it up. (i think its 19mm check while its off) i used a halfords 3/4 drive the 1/2" drive was to long you'll see when you're there.
good luck mate
yep you can and I would (did) assemble turbo, manifold and down pipe (berk) then lower it into place. ask a mate to help take some of the weight from under the car it'll help.
note we had problems with the turbo oil feed pipe and or banjo bolt (engine side) we couldn't stop it leaking or figure out why it was. we had it on and off 3 or 4 times. everything looked fine no leaks when off etc
Id recommend a new oil feed pipe and banjo bolt as that's what fixed it in the end. i also used copper washers that they use on rx7s as the metal ones from Toyota were, one crap and two a fiver each.
you can give the old ones a go first mind as you can get to the oil feed when everythings in place if you need to take it off. it was however a nightmare job.
you'll need to leave the turbo support bracket off till you've tightened the oil feed banjo bolt. you'll also need a deep 19mm socket and small ish drive to avoid the down pipe when tightening it up. (i think its 19mm check while its off) i used a halfords 3/4 drive the 1/2" drive was to long you'll see when you're there.
good luck mate
Re: Easiest way to put Manifold/turbo back on
Excellent, thanks for the tips.
* You mention the turbo support bracket, did you just need this out of the way to tighten the banjo bolt?
*Did you have to remove the large heat shield that bolts to the cockpit bulkhead for extra room?
*And did you attack from the top or bring it up from underneath?
Last time i did this (a while back) i didnt have issues with the oil pipe, all i did do was replace the washers and make sure everything was super clean, maybe you had a small piece of grit or something on the mating surface?
Thanks for the pointers
* You mention the turbo support bracket, did you just need this out of the way to tighten the banjo bolt?
*Did you have to remove the large heat shield that bolts to the cockpit bulkhead for extra room?
*And did you attack from the top or bring it up from underneath?
Last time i did this (a while back) i didnt have issues with the oil pipe, all i did do was replace the washers and make sure everything was super clean, maybe you had a small piece of grit or something on the mating surface?
Thanks for the pointers
1994 Astral Black Rev3 Turbo
HKS Induction > HKS SSQV > Greddy intercooler > Berk Downpipe > Blitz Nur-Spec> 2x Magic tree
HKS Induction > HKS SSQV > Greddy intercooler > Berk Downpipe > Blitz Nur-Spec> 2x Magic tree
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Re: Easiest way to put Manifold/turbo back on
Hi Matt, you got any picture of your 2?
Havent seen you about I don't think??
Will
Re: Easiest way to put Manifold/turbo back on
willfinch36 wrote:Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://images.cheezburger.com/completes ... 172673.jpg
Blame the phone! It normally corrects my errors (there are many:))
You wont have seen this one yet as Ive only had it a few weeks, will post some pics when she's back in one piece
1994 Astral Black Rev3 Turbo
HKS Induction > HKS SSQV > Greddy intercooler > Berk Downpipe > Blitz Nur-Spec> 2x Magic tree
HKS Induction > HKS SSQV > Greddy intercooler > Berk Downpipe > Blitz Nur-Spec> 2x Magic tree
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- Posts: 88
- Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 4:41 pm
- Location: Chester
Re: Easiest way to put Manifold/turbo back on
everything was torqued up off the car turbo to manifold and turbo to dp elbow and the turbo to oil feed pipe. then guided in from the top. the person underneath just helped take some of the weight while it was guided into place on the manifold studs.
the turbo stay can go back on after you've tightened the banjo it restricts access far to much to have it on first. you'll see more when you're back under the car. same as the small 3/4 drive the longer 1/2 drive fowled on the dp and the deeper socket depends on what you're kits like you have to go over the top of summit (forgotten now) and with the normal one i found i was risking slipping off and rounding it. (i used a spark plug type one)
i also did it the other way attaching the man and turbo then fitting the dp. it was very difficult to tighten all the elbow bolts. as i said had it on and off two or three times and attaching the lot first was the best way.
also you can get at the oil feed pip with everything on the car (except the turbo stay) just in case you have the same problem.) no dirt or anything must just have slightly warped the bold and or oil pipe everything looked fine just wouldn't stop leaking new bolt and pipe fixed it
I didn't need to remove that heat shield I did remove the engine hanger but I had taken the old intercooler out to put in a charge cooler and hadn't replaced the engine hook at that time cant remember if it needed to be off but its really easy to do anyway. undid the dipstick at the top but you'll have done that already.
let me know how you get on. if you need them copper washers give me a shout i'll see the the lads in Silverstone Autosport will help another MR2 fella out i'm sure they won't mind. i could post them to you. see how you get on
the turbo stay can go back on after you've tightened the banjo it restricts access far to much to have it on first. you'll see more when you're back under the car. same as the small 3/4 drive the longer 1/2 drive fowled on the dp and the deeper socket depends on what you're kits like you have to go over the top of summit (forgotten now) and with the normal one i found i was risking slipping off and rounding it. (i used a spark plug type one)
i also did it the other way attaching the man and turbo then fitting the dp. it was very difficult to tighten all the elbow bolts. as i said had it on and off two or three times and attaching the lot first was the best way.
also you can get at the oil feed pip with everything on the car (except the turbo stay) just in case you have the same problem.) no dirt or anything must just have slightly warped the bold and or oil pipe everything looked fine just wouldn't stop leaking new bolt and pipe fixed it
I didn't need to remove that heat shield I did remove the engine hanger but I had taken the old intercooler out to put in a charge cooler and hadn't replaced the engine hook at that time cant remember if it needed to be off but its really easy to do anyway. undid the dipstick at the top but you'll have done that already.
let me know how you get on. if you need them copper washers give me a shout i'll see the the lads in Silverstone Autosport will help another MR2 fella out i'm sure they won't mind. i could post them to you. see how you get on
Re: Easiest way to put Manifold/turbo back on
The copper washers are crush washers so they can only be used once so they will need replacing but there not much to buy.
And when i fitted my turbo i assembled it all on the work bench then dropped in from above, i did this on my own in the garage it really is stright forward buddy.
And when i fitted my turbo i assembled it all on the work bench then dropped in from above, i did this on my own in the garage it really is stright forward buddy.