[Mk2] [Turbo] ST205 Chargecooler Installation Guide (non 56k friendly)

[phillips1981]

[quote=">PETE<"]

If anyone has a REAL Gen III wiring diagram I would love to get a copy, as all the copies I have are from the Gen II.


I downloaded the set of electrical wiring diagrams ages ago, they're PDF's in a RAR file i can email them to any one interested if you PM me* you'll have to sort through them as theres a few ( 48 )

*i can un-RAR them to normal folders if your unfamiliar with the file type (sorry if thats teaching ya gram to suck eggs not every one knows what they are)

>PETE< i've PM'd you as well maybe you can take a look at them and see if they're helpful. don't know much about this sort of thing

Mat

[toxo]

IIRC the ones you're referring to are for US cars and aren't Toyota ones, they're produced by a 3rd party.

[SFLee]

if i remember correctly people use the st205 wireing
i think the pdf is floating somewhere

[JasonB]

I'm currently amassing the parts I need to do this conversion and hope to get it fitted soon.
Could anyone advise on what is a tried and tested way to get the stock re-circ valve assembly from the rev.2 tubby to work correctlyt with the st205 c/c set up?
I've not heard good report of rev. 2's running correctly with anaftermasrket blow off valve so would be interested to hear and see what's been done and proven to work.

Cheers,

JB

[toxo]

There's nothing too complicated about it - the ST205 CC has a takeoff for the stock DV which is the right size. You just need to use hose and clamps to connect to it rather than screwing into the hardpipe as you would with the stock setup. Then everything else stays the same, same small vac pipe to connect to the inlet manifold and same big hose to recirc back into the airbox. While I have a rev3 with SSQV, the fitting kit on my SSQV is for a stock MR2 hardpipe, so I have attached it the same way as you would attach the stock DV.

However I believe if you get the ST185 CC (the one designed to fit a rev1/rev2 head) then it doesn't have the takeoff for the recirc valve.

[Marf]

I'm using the stock Rev3 BOV with my CC setup.

We just cut the standard rubber recirc pipe to make the two pieces needed to go between the CC->BOV and the BOV->ARC Airbox.

[toxo]

First page updated with missing pics

[>PETE<]

Gents,

I've managed to get the power steering working quite nicely with the ST205 ECU. Run the usual relay in the ECU to stop the Code 54 Error from coming up.

I then ran a second relay for the power steering (PSCT Wire) which used the ST205 pump operation as the trigger.

Essentially this stops the power steering pump from running when the car is starting or when the engine isn't running and the key is on ignition.

My ST205 ECU now does everything my MR2 ECU would do, only it runs a much nicer MAP.

Oh, I also removed the CF (Cooling FAN) pin from the ECU. I was finding it was switching on the cooling fan at really odd times (I.e when the engine was cold at startup). This enables the Cooling FAN ECU to control the fan, rather than letting the Engine ECU override its operation.

[toxo]

On a Rev3/ST205 layout the FAN and INT pin are the same pin. So you have to remove the FAN pin and replace it with one that enables the relay for the chargecooler pump.

I take it you're not using the GT4 pump which is why you also see code 54?

[>PETE<]

Hey Toxo,

I am using the ST205 pump, however I'm not letting the ECU control it in the fashion it was designed. I've got it all hooked up so that if the ECU is swapped out for a MR2 one for whatever reason, the chargecooler pump will still continue to operate. If I ever want to sell the ECU, I can do this knowing it will work perfectly ok on a Gen III MR2 as well with no error codes being thrown.

Not sure what pin the 'FAN' pin is. Is this the 'CF' ECU pinout? If so, I can say for sure that it definitely didn't control the MR2 intercooler fan the same was as the chargecooler pump.

[toxo]

Sorry, I meant CF not FAN. You're right, it won't be any use for controlling a chargecooler pump as it is meant for a different purpose. Because the fan has its own controller, the CF pin is just an emergency fan override.

[BrianUK]

Great write up - many thanks - Im just about to do the conversion on my MR2 - except that I will be using a brand new radiator of a Triumph Trident that I bought on Ebay for 15 quid

I do have two questions however:

I understand the ST205 Chargecooler pump is rated at 12 amps - and can pull up tp 18 amps (ref: http://celicas.messageboard.nl/viewtopic.php?t=306) - one reason it doesn't run continuously on the Celica. If thats the case would it not be better to rig it so that it only pumps when boosting?

Im think of using a Radiator fan fixing kit

http://www.jperformance.co.uk/universal ... ufhkgmrch1

to fix my rad to the existing rads - but put a spacer in between them. This should be easier to fit - and not rust lol! - any comments?

Cheers - Brian

[Daemonslayer]

the writeup helped me a lot too.

now i have 2 of those 90° hose reducers if someone needs em.
bought exactly the same as toxo- the good stuff.

[toxo]

I do have two questions however:

I understand the ST205 Chargecooler pump is rated at 12 amps - and can pull up tp 18 amps (ref: http://celicas.messageboard.nl/viewtopic.php?t=306) - one reason it doesn't run continuously on the Celica. If thats the case would it not be better to rig it so that it only pumps when boosting?

The Celica runs the pump whenever the throttle is pressed, and for 30s afterwards. I guess once the turbo's got hot, it stays that way for a while, so the air being drawn in would be hot for a short period after boosting.

I don't think there's any harm in running it all the time - I used to run my SPAL fans all the time and that eventually overloaded my alternator but they were 30A

Im think of using a Radiator fan fixing kit

http://www.jperformance.co.uk/universal ... ufhkgmrch1

to fix my rad to the existing rads - but put a spacer in between them. This should be easier to fit - and not rust lol! - any comments?

Cheers - Brian

I don't see how that works, do you put the cabletie-type-things through the fins?! The reason people use the fiat rad is that the mounts on it line up vertically with existing bolt holes on the front of the MR2.

[Nails]

after reading through this thread Im sitting thinking, if you fitted the charge cooler set up and a celica ecu from a uk car then you should be able to run normal unleaded?

Relying on optimax etc isnt to bad when Im anywhere near home as I seem to know each garage I can get it for a 200 mile radius after years of having to use it, but its always a nightmare when Im away from home, and especially in the wilds of wales/scotland etc.

Anybody done thise, yes it would lose some power but cant be that much?

[toxo]

I don't know enough about the UK cars to tell you. Certainly in the UK MR2s Toyota started adding things like EGR and immobilisation features to the ECU which you might need to watch out for.

[Nails]

I was wondering if there was any engine differences but didn't even think about egrs etc. Was more just a query than a real thought lol.

[hmltnangel]

Dragging up old thread time

A few questions about this as 'm almost done fitting mines.

1. Is it necessary to have the old IC fan still running? Or can I do without?
2. Anyone get a good final solution to the swirl pot? The setup I got doesnt have one, I'm guessing any expansion tank would be ok as long as its small?
3. I'm using a Rev3 MR2 ECU. Whats the best way of wiring up the pump along with a warning light if the pump fails?
4. Wahst the easiest way to wire up a light of the level falls?

cheerss

[shinny]

Dragging up old thread time

A few questions about this as 'm almost done fitting mines.

1. Is it necessary to have the old IC fan still running? Or can I do without?
2. Anyone get a good final solution to the swirl pot? The setup I got doesnt have one, I'm guessing any expansion tank would be ok as long as its small?
3. I'm using a Rev3 MR2 ECU. Whats the best way of wiring up the pump along with a warning light if the pump fails?
4. Wahst the easiest way to wire up a light of the level falls?

cheerss

1. The IC fan will still work like an NA's engine bay fan - in fact you can replace it with an NA fan so it bolts straight up, now your IC is gone. Not necessary really, but nice to have the fan for hot days and stops the warning light on the dash that you'd get if it's not present.

2. I'd be interested to know... I've tried various things (mostly expansion tank related) and not entirely sure I've found a good solution yet, mostly as my pump / core combo seems to be made of elastic and sucks a good 20-30cc of coolant in when the pump starts, which has trouble exiting via that tiny overflow pipe when the pump switches off.

3. Use an ST205 ECU! If that's not an option, a temperature gauge in the coolant (digital, as most analogue WT gauges don't go down low enough) would warn you if the pump stops pumping provided you watch it for high readings. Not quite the easy warning light you'd hoped for.

4. The switch in the core will break connection on low level. The simplest way would be to use a normally closed (or SPDT) relay such that the relay is energised with the switch closed (good level) and deactivates to switch on a warning light when the level drops

[bri0905]

If you search for "flow switch" on google/eBay you may find some that could be fitted to your pipe work. This could then be wired to a light fitted somewhere to show if water is flowing.