[Mk2] [Turbo] How to setup Ohlin struts, damper wise?? wheel hop!! And CV cage??

[jimGTS]

Doing a bit of research into drag racing, and running slicks, drag radials etc etc, discovered what's known as wheel hopping, and am pretty sure my car does this when wheel spinning. Ie The engine and car basically hop around as the suspension is setup a little to hard. This causes alot of cabin vibration, so you know it's happening.
Ie bad news I hear??

Thankfully my Ohlin struts are adjustable damper wise, just wondered if anyone knew about these struts, which way to
make them softer/harder, clockwise? Anticlockwise?? and how many clicks I need to go as they clicks when turning them.

I had a look over the weekend, and the adjusters still work/move, but before playing around with them, I thought I'd ask on here???

Also found that ideally, the cv joints/cage need to be uprated ideally to handle the strain of slicks or DR???
Discovered CRW in the states do a good set?? OTT or defo needed if planning to run DR???

Cheers

[toxo]

I've got ATS CV cages on mine, courtesy of Nathan, so CRW aren't the only option. See http://www.atsracing.net/ats_racing_chr ... er_cv_.htm

I don't run enough power to justify them but I'm sure they'll outlast stock ones (plus mine were shot), and I know he had them fitted because he was going through driveshafts & CVs like nobody's business.

I reckon if you start running slicks/drag radials with the power you're putting out your CV joints will be the first part to give up as they are likely the weakest link in the transmission. I couldn't tell you how long they would last, though.

[jimGTS]

yeh saw ATS have an option as well, but for the costs involved, seems like the CRW is a much more well rounded kit, you get a ton more kit for your money, and doesnt require anywhere near the work involved to fit like the ats ones do.
tho once installed, bet there little difference of course.

what have i let myself in for, lol

[toxo]

Ah yeah mine were supplied preassembled on driveshafts so no messing around with fri88ing horrible CV grease

I think Nath was having wheel hopping problems when he ran with my coilovers as well as they were too stiff.

This should help you with the Ohlins - there are links down the left hand side for adjusting preload, spring rate etc:
http://www.ohlins.com/Checkpoint-Ohlins ... to-adjust/

Edit: wrong link

[jimGTS]

yeh i cant find much on the car struts, only can find stuff on the bikes....
cant imagine there anywhere near the same?

[toxo]

If you ignore the rubbish in the address, that is in the 'Setting up your car' section of their website, NOT the bike section.

[ej2_sir]

I had ohlins fixed height struts with adjustable damping on mine when bought it. I tried everything to soften them up as they were so stiff. If I remember there was about 26 clicks on them. Mine were probably faulty as although they turned freely it just didnt seem to make any noticable difference no matter where they were set.

[jimGTS]

I had ohlins fixed height struts with adjustable damping on mine when bought it. I tried everything to soften them up as they were so stiff. If I remember there was about 26 clicks on them. Mine were probably faulty as although they turned freely it just didnt seem to make any noticable difference no matter where they were set.

cheers, any ideas which way was "supposed" to be soft and hard?
26 clicks is alot! lol

[ej2_sir]

Unfortunatly not mate as mine didnt do bu88er all! The way I tackled it was click them all the way (either clockwise or anti) count the clicks all the way to the other lock. Take it out for a drive on the first setting (should feel if the rebound is harder or softer then flick em all the way over in the other direction and this should tellyou which direction is hard or soft and you should reach a happy medium. As long as you count your clicks you can put them back to where they were. Sorry for the totally unscientific post!

[Driftlimits Performance]

Here haven't read all the post but you can reduce the bouncing off the line with an engine torque dampner. Again soft suspension so the power and weight can be sent to the back nicely.

[Jim-SR]

a bit late with the reply, but Ohlins adjusters are clockwise = stiffer (as you look at it).

depending on where your Ohlins originate from, chances are they are original Japanese valving. in which case they will likely be too stiff for UK roads, and tend to be heavy on rebound. which could explain in some part the lack of rear traction and wheel hopping.

they can be revalved though. we are an ohlins service agent in the UK, so if you want any more information then let me know.

[jimGTS]

a bit late with the reply, but Ohlins adjusters are clockwise = stiffer (as you look at it).

depending on where your Ohlins originate from, chances are they are original Japanese valving. in which case they will likely be too stiff for UK roads, and tend to be heavy on rebound. which could explain in some part the lack of rear traction and wheel hopping.

they can be revalved though. we are an ohlins service agent in the UK, so if you want any more information then let me know.

thanks for info
ill keep you guys in mind if i ever need to fix one!
ill try anticlockwise and see what happens!

[adam3442]

Here haven't read all the post but you can reduce the bouncing off the line with an engine torque dampner. Again soft suspension so the power and weight can be sent to the back nicely.

Dedicated Matt on the OC.com has just started producing an awesome engine anti-torque bar.

[Century Motorsport]

If your experiencing tramping off the line you need to try and get your tyres to hook better - this can be adjusted with tyre pressures.

Softening off the rebound will help but not a massive amount.

CV's are recommended but if you can get away cleanly each time you shouldn't have a problem with the stock ones - its the shock loading through the drive train when it's tramping that snaps shafts and kills CV's.