hi ya
i got mk1a
need a new engine whihc i have got from jinxy
is there a write up for engine removal then change over to a B engine??
many thanks
(the one in the imoc KB no longer works
pete
engine change
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engine change
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Re: engine change
crikey - didn't know you needed a new engine. you've not had much luck with having to do stuff to that car
you wil need to swap looms as well as the engine if you are swaping 1a to 1b, plus you need other 1b bits unless you are gettign a job lot - eg intake manifold, injectors, ecu.....
easier to do a 1a to 1a swap
didn't Ki do a 1a to b swap recently?......
try a search in the section here
you wil need to swap looms as well as the engine if you are swaping 1a to 1b, plus you need other 1b bits unless you are gettign a job lot - eg intake manifold, injectors, ecu.....
easier to do a 1a to 1a swap
didn't Ki do a 1a to b swap recently?......
try a search in the section here
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Re: engine change
from speaking to jinx
its easier to swap the tvis and then just the sensors
other than that is straight swap....
the head gasket has gone putting air into the coolant but not water into cylinders yet..
its only when engines running also its not throwing lots of oil out now too
its running for now so gives me time to bling up the new engine
its easier to swap the tvis and then just the sensors
other than that is straight swap....
the head gasket has gone putting air into the coolant but not water into cylinders yet..
its only when engines running also its not throwing lots of oil out now too
its running for now so gives me time to bling up the new engine
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Re: engine change
I just finished my 1a to 1b swap, things to remember are:
Use the 1a inlet manifold/throttlebody
unless you want to solder 1b injector conectors on then use the 1a injectors(i just soldered the later connectors to the 1a loom-10 mins work)
The TPS plug has to types, check which is on your existing loom and change the tps if necessary.
Distributers are different, use the correct one for the engine
The water temp connector was different between the looms(again i just soldered the one i needed onto the existing loom.
Right hand engine hanger and the actual mount are different, i ended up using a 1b mount and hanger but i had to cut off some of the tube that holds the mounting bolt as it is too wide for the 1a chassis.
Sounds alot but if you plan it all out then it just kinda happens, mine is running fine now and has been trouble free.................. ...touches some wood quickly!!
Hope that helps mate, any troubles just shout
Ki
Use the 1a inlet manifold/throttlebody
unless you want to solder 1b injector conectors on then use the 1a injectors(i just soldered the later connectors to the 1a loom-10 mins work)
The TPS plug has to types, check which is on your existing loom and change the tps if necessary.
Distributers are different, use the correct one for the engine
The water temp connector was different between the looms(again i just soldered the one i needed onto the existing loom.
Right hand engine hanger and the actual mount are different, i ended up using a 1b mount and hanger but i had to cut off some of the tube that holds the mounting bolt as it is too wide for the 1a chassis.
Sounds alot but if you plan it all out then it just kinda happens, mine is running fine now and has been trouble free.................. ...touches some wood quickly!!
Hope that helps mate, any troubles just shout
Ki
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Re: engine change
Kieran Williams wrote:I just finished my 1a to 1b swap, things to remember are:
Use the 1a inlet manifold/throttlebody
unless you want to solder 1b injector conectors on then use the 1a injectors(i just soldered the later connectors to the 1a loom-10 mins work)
The TPS plug has to types, check which is on your existing loom and change the tps if necessary.
Distributers are different, use the correct one for the engine
The water temp connector was different between the looms(again i just soldered the one i needed onto the existing loom.
Right hand engine hanger and the actual mount are different, i ended up using a 1b mount and hanger but i had to cut off some of the tube that holds the mounting bolt as it is too wide for the 1a chassis.
Sounds alot but if you plan it all out then it just kinda happens, mine is running fine now and has been trouble free.................. ...touches some wood quickly!!
Hope that helps mate, any troubles just shout
Ki
brilliant many thanks...
with the soldering are the wire colours the same if not how did you you know which was pos or neg??
i might solder as i am elec engineer anyway
mine is an a/b crossover with an a engine
cheers
pete
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Re: engine change
wires were the same as far as i remember pete
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Re: engine change
Kieran Williams wrote:I just finished my 1a to 1b swap, things to remember are:
Use the 1a inlet manifold/throttlebody
unless you want to solder 1b injector conectors on then use the 1a injectors(i just soldered the later connectors to the 1a loom-10 mins work)
The TPS plug has to types, check which is on your existing loom and change the tps if necessary.
Distributers are different, use the correct one for the engine
The water temp connector was different between the looms(again i just soldered the one i needed onto the existing loom.
Right hand engine hanger and the actual mount are different, i ended up using a 1b mount and hanger but i had to cut off some of the tube that holds the mounting bolt as it is too wide for the 1a chassis.
Sounds alot but if you plan it all out then it just kinda happens, mine is running fine now and has been trouble free.................. ...touches some wood quickly!!
Hope that helps mate, any troubles just shout
Ki
The easiest way is
use the ECU, loom, throttlebody, dizzy, injectors, manifold and sensors off the current engine. No soldering and no problems.
Change the mounts where required
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Re: engine change
The loom is differnt lengths on 1b, there was a differnce on the water temp sender also.
Either way works, its your choice.
Either way works, its your choice.