Desperate after 3 months of none starter !!!!!!!

[foxy red]

Ok back in early november i posted , still no joy fella was picking up the car after selling her car had alawys been 100% Battery was on last legs so i bort a new one and changed minutes before he came , then when restarting it would only crank not fire car has a redundant ie none working immobilisor ie never worked or needed to place fob as it had been disabled years ago .

So investigation started on the drive Defo getting spark , ie screwdriver in HT lead and strong ark to plenium chamber , strong smell of fuel so would imagine fguel pump is fine and 1/2 tank of fuel , ive cheacked all fuses and looked at relays all are fine (how do u check those big relays ). So im at a loss been in contact witha few alarm people localy and they dont think its the alarm as it cranks and sparks and smells of fuel and an imobilisor would prevent any one or all of theses ? no warning lights on dash , any suggestions , just been out today and all the above is the same no change .

Any suggestions or is anyone in Surrey who fancies earning a few quid car is in KT12 Walton on Thames PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE is my fairy god mother out there who can help us , Big thanks as usual SEFIK

[ligertigon]

its not enough to check spark at HT. you need to follow the route, i.e. check plugs, also it could be a faulty adjusted/damp distributor.
I would put the base of a long screwdriver to my ear, with the other end on the injectors and listen for clicking on all 4 when cranked.



Most likely the battery you got is too weak or a dud, try a jump start?

[mr2mk1chick]

Also check the immobliser hasn't sprung back into action

hope someone in your area can help

[foxy red]

cheers guys , pritty sure the batt is fine cranks good and strong brand new and tested and got 12volts or is it amps on tester but will try a jump while cranking at same time , i am inclinded to believe its the immobilsor so looks like ill be spending £69 plus vat for a local trrusted firm to come out and investigate , even though they said its not likely to be the immobilisor keep the ideas coming thanks again SEFIK

[crazylegs]

have a good look at the distributor. the signal for the injectors etc will come from here.

[mr2mk1chick]

maybe a dumb q, buthave you checked the order of the leads from the dizzy to plugs?

[System-G]

If it were the imobaliser, it wouldn't crank. You'd get nithing, but the sound of the key turning the barrel...

Sounds to me like distributor (incl dizzy cap, rotor etc...) or plugs/l;eads from dizzy to plugs.

[monkeymax]

If it were the imobaliser, it wouldn't crank. You'd get nithing, but the sound of the key turning the barrel...

Not necessarily. Immobiliser on my Mk1 and my Corolla both operate such that they stop the fuel pump from working. Car cranks perfectly fine, but will not start.
Depends on how the immobiliser works.

[chiron]

First check you are getting spark at each plug, use a spare plug on each HT lead in turn and look for spark when cranking.

To be honest immobilisers are not too hard to remove if you have access to the car for decent amount of time, its just a case of unpicking the wiring. They are designed to stop some little scrote jumping in and driving off in it.

If you are getting spark to all plugs when cranking then next check the fuel supply. If you connect the Fp point in the diagnostic connector to B (or is it E?) then you should hear the fuel pump run and hear fuel running around the pipes.
If the injectors are not firing then there is a serious fault like the position sensor in the dizzy but you should get a fault code from this if you do a diagnostic check.

incidentally how old is the fuel? I've known car not to start because the fuel was very stale.

Just re-reading your post, did it fail to start after changing the battery? or was it faulty before? If so then it probably is the immob.

[System-G]

If it were the imobaliser, it wouldn't crank. You'd get nithing, but the sound of the key turning the barrel...

Not necessarily. Immobiliser on my Mk1 and my Corolla both operate such that they stop the fuel pump from working. Car cranks perfectly fine, but will not start.
Depends on how the immobiliser works.

OK

Mine does naff all unless it's activated. It's a real PITA and I need to remove the whole lot sooner than later

[foxy red]

the car was spot on before changed batt , happened immediatly after putting in new batt with half a tank of new fuel , prior to that i could remove and charge up the old dying batt and put in and start up again no problem , just immediatly started when i put in new batt in car PS Kev do u fancy earning £50 quid just to give me an experts opinion seeing you know these motors inside out , would be greatly appreciated thanks Gang SEFIK

[ligertigon]

find immobiliser, if its got a key hole in it, drill it out and use a screwdriver to switch it off.

As you say, only happened when battery removed.

Does this make sense?

[crazylegs]

sefik i dont have your number anymore pm sent

[foxy red]

maks perfect sense , Crazylegs is popping round tomoz to av a look , PM sent kev

[chiron]

If it failed after the battery change then i'd put my money on the immob. Most of them will reset into secure mode. What make and model of immobi is it? Can you find the immobi ecu?

[MartG]

If you know where the immobiliser ecu is, you can trace the wiring from it to find what circuits it is interrupting and reconnect the original wiring - alternatively once you identify the pairs of wires you cn cut and splice them at the immob end

[foxy red]

cheers for the immob advise i will look at the mentioned areas over weekend

[crazylegs]

after a quick look i think its the fuel pump. i am going for better look today. i`m hoping its just a connection or the pumps jammed but from the thread it seems likely its the immobiliser. we will see.

[chiron]

If you bridge the Fp and B+ connection in the diagnostic connector then you should hear it run and it will give you a chance to see if it will start.

The immobiliser will have interupted the fuel pump power feed at the ignition switch end of the wire. The Fp pin is wired close to the pump so it will act as a bypass.

[MartG]

If you bridge the Fp and B+ connection in the diagnostic connector then you should hear it run and it will give you a chance to see if it will start.

Needs the ignition on