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Before spending lots of money on upgrades check: That your lenses are nice and clean. If they are dirty on the inside or damaged, the relatively cheap "crystal" clear headlights on ebay for about £40-£50 are pretty good for the money. Voltage to the plug - the youngest SW20 is now 20 years...

So fronts harder? I seen somebody with BCs saying they had them set 3 clicks above softest. Dunno if that meant all of them or what though. Lower number = softer usually, though its not really defined, I should have specified. 8 front = 8 clicks up from softest setting. Thats just what I found work...

Sounds like your dampers were knackered then. Have you still got the old units? A test (if you want to find out) would be to remove the top mount and spring and compress the damper. I've seen sets so far gone that they do not rebound without assistance!

Ryan S wrote:Yeah deffo man. No idea what to set them to though haha!

Just got to test and find what suits you. IIRC, for general road stuff I have mine set to ~8 front, 11 rear, seems to suit my car well.

I prefer a bit more damping at the rear than at the front.

I think for a road car, you want it a soft as possible without introducing "bouncing"

The outer rear tie rod bearings if they've never been done, when they fail the handling is awful. IIRC, the coilovers will come with one pair of droplinks, so you'll probably want to replace the other pair too. I can't remember if they come with a front or rear pair though. Reason is one end require...

Ah thanks for this man. I never even though about corner weighting! Its not 100% required, they should have the right amount of preload or there abouts out the box, so you can just set the heights where you want them and leave it there, it'll still be decent. Corner weighting perfects it. You will ...

Preload should be set about right out the box, if you're getting it done properly they'll be corner weighting anyway so best just to let them worry about the finer points. Only "user adjustable" thing after the initial installation and setup is damping rate. This is personal preference, I ...

Have you ever changed the rear outer tie rod bearings?

If you've bypassed the relay it should be running at a constant 12V, which is fine. Verify that though with a multimeter though. It was my mate Kris who did the wiring. Relay is deffo bypassed as i spoke to him today. You can here the pump speeding up and slowing down when i turn the steering. That...

If you've bypassed the relay it should be running at a constant 12V, which is fine. Verify that though with a multimeter though.

Yeah man, subframe's been off twice at least! Alignment for sure is needed then. The subframe is not a perfect fit, the bores are a little larger than the bolts, so when removed its highly unlikely its reinstalled in exactly the same place. It's only a couple mm if that, but it all adds up when you...

Long ago mate, It is on the to do list!! It's not been aligned since I put the spacers on. The short story is it went for painting 5 year ago, got it back from the painter then basically put it off the road. This is me just getting it all sorted now. So that deffo needs done. Has the subframe been ...

Quite possibly. The 4 wire type sensor has a heating element. The OEM Denso one is fiendishly expensive (3 figures)! Image Replaced With URL For Quote https://mr2-ben.co.uk/uploads/image/file/195/lambda_sensor_toyota_MR2_SW20.jpg You can get a 'Denso quality' one a bit cheaper. Only expensive if yo...

What tyres are they as well? Something like a Rainsport 3 (notoriously soft) will feel very different to an AD08R for example.

Even a low offset 9inch wheel with a smaller spacer would be a better situation, at least then you can fit a larger tyre like a 255/40R17.

Upgrading the strut braces was noticeable on my t top, so I'd imagine removing them entirely would have an effect as well. Those tyres are probably contributing to the issue too. 235/45R17 on a 7 inch wheel is outside the recommended fitment range for most manufacturers, you should check your specif...

hi everyone,im hoping for some help here..... ive purchased a nice uk k reg mr2 as a little project for me and my daughter to tidy up and use. now the car is registered feb 1993 and when i took it for mot we realised it had the cat removed so it failed the mot on emissions and cat not being present...

Not that into Boosteboiz content personally. All seems a bit bodgy, I'd rather watch stuff with a bit more finesse about the build.

Time for a Link 3 or 4 bar MAP sensor and another mapping session!

Boost leaks, vacuum leaks, dead / failing solenoid.