www.imoc.co.uk

And have you made sure you got every connection? If the car cranks if you supply power to the big block connector at the bottom of the steering column then either there's a break in the wiring between the ignition switch and that connector or the ignition switch is faulty both are easy to test, eith...

As said in your other thread this sounds like an alarm immobiliser that is disabling both circuits

Do you have a fob for the alarm and does it activate/deactivate? You need to do a continuity test from the sta wire off at the ignition barrel switch all the way back to the wire at the starter and figure out where it's been cut into and repair it. It goes from.the ignition barrel to a wiring connec...

If it's not working properly yes, I take it the starter isn't turning when you twist the key to start?

What did you do to get power to the main feed?

As has been said the ignition switch can fail, does the car have an aftermarket alarm fitted?

The thick black red has to be a fuse as it's part of the main permanent live feed from front to rear. Open the fuse box in the frunk and look at the big fuses at the bottom

No power to the thick black and red permanent live or no power to the small solenoid activation wire when trying to start the car?

Personally I don't like the bomex skirts, I think the greddy or toms skirts look alot better

Any pictures?

As jim says yes but the pipe is normally turned 90 degrees from yours so the open end is out of sight

The yellowish plastic thing is a sensor it's part of the cars heater system, I can't remember if it's for aircon only cars or not

I may be wrong it's been 18 months since I've played with one but I don't remember having a security pin.

The other option is to sit and go through every code combination I've had to do it before and it's tedious but once you get into a rhythm it doesn't take that long

Not sure on the led but both the other issues are options that can be turned off.

The last ai606 I had didn't have a 4 digit code there was a sequence you did with the key and fob to get into the programming menu

the pipe from the tank to fuel filter is virtually impossible to separate at the tank union so most cut the hard line and use aeromotive fittings to make a new line to the filter. you would probably need to order them in advance of the job so i wouldn't wait till the engines out if your planning to ...

Gaz before commencing work check the condition of the fuel line from the tank to the bottom of the fuel filter a few of these are starting to fail Mots for corrosion it'll be alot easier to fix with your engine out so I'd check it now and order the parts ready if it does look ropey

Little ends arrived then?

I'm out Im afraid I'll be sunning it on a beach in the canaries

Is it still a rev1 box? They were known for having weak synchros compared to later boxes so it's likely just age.

Any decent gearbox/transmission company should be able to do it there's nothing special about them, there's a big company in Sheffield but the name eludes memory currently

Pete's a nice bloke but he's not known for getting things done quickly

Think he wants them soon