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One thing worth pointing out for rev 3 turbo owners is that the procedure in the BGB for tensioning the belt with a torque wrench is not applicable and rather annoyingly is not contained in the rev 3 supplement either. Nice guide!

Before you take the conrods apart - number them all. Its imperitive you put the rod caps back on in the EXACT way you took them off. If you fit it 180 degrees out or on another rod you will know about it in approx 100miles. Nathan Toyota put match marks and numbers on the caps, i used these when re...

Different leagues really, mr 2's gotta be the most fun for the money!

i wouldn't mind having cruise control for average speed cameras, not sure about the trc tho, as long as you're paying attention you can feel when the wheels spin and you'd loose the option of right foot steering if you got the back end out! still, nice having all the gadgets..

Could be the 02 sensor

Typically i get about 30mpg out of my rev 3 turbo booting it wherever i get the opportunity. Worst i've seen is about 25mpg and the best 33mpg on a long motorway drive. It's completely stock apart from slightly higher compression pistons which help increase the efficiency a little bit.

Are you sure you've bolted the slave cylinder bracket on properly? After rebuilding the entire engine i thought this was by the far the most awkward thing to re-attach!

If you want a cheap rebuild ct engineering did mine for £250 which included a new compressor wheel. It's worked perfectly ever since. Turn around time was about a day!

I agree with 3sgte, mine got soaked when i cleaned it before i put my engine back, works fine. I've noticed toyota usually encase any delicate electronics in a resin so water damage is less likely. I had a lot of smoke on my car when i got a hairline crack on the dipstick holder which causing oil to...

Yeah, i set mine to the above. I found after having the valves resurfaced the gaps were all a bit on the small side. A flat bit of tempered glass,some ultra fine wet and a micrometer saved me buying any new shims.

The pipes just carry the refrigerant, if you ever reconnect them and dirts got in there you should really flush the system out. A bit of tape over the end is fine.

Any chance you want to sell the front one which connects to the AC rad and ends near the front wheel on the driver side?

Taking the axle off, pretty easy really.

Hmm, the only bolts on the far edge near the dowls are the two near the flywheel inside the transmission casing, then there are the two recessed into the deep holes.

Yeah, my support bearing was worn when i took mine out. The only bearing i found on the entire engine with play in it.

Yes, rev 1/2 have higher compression pistons. Aren't they 8.8:1 instead of 8.5:1? The intake must have something to do with it as well.

It's a real pain to get off even with the engine out. You have to take the oil pan off first, there are about 3 or 4 bolts holding the sump on under that. Then there are loads dotted around the edge of the sump. Like has been pointed out already there are two at the flywheel end hidden under the rub...

The oily turbo would worry me the most. It could be leaky seals but it could easily be cracked ringlands which means full engine rebuild. I wouldn't take a risk over that, i'd at least want to compression test it. Either way it's not going to be cheap.

I've got the exedy one and i really like it. Bites hard, has stock feel and was barely worn when i took it out for my engine rebuild. Having said that nothing wrong with the stock one either, seem to last about 60-70k on average.

Nice posts above, i think with forged pistons it's even more important to warm the engine up before using it hard due to the larger tolerances.

A brass wire brush is ideal, especially for the head as it's very difficult to scratch aluminum with one. If you use one be careful not to use an old one as it's more likely strands may break off and fall down inside. They cost about £3 from your local motor shop...