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Yes just need to shim the valves again.

The only main difference will be the cams, plus you will need a rev3 intake & exhaust manifold. To get 250 bhp out of a rev1 you will need a Metal head gasket, free flowing exhaust, better intercooler, and about 1bar boost should get you in the region of 250. Turbo is the limiting factor not the...

Breaker bar with one end on floor. Pull coil lead. Flick starter it will break it free and then just remove with ratchet.

Hi check king lead of coil first. For the car to not even attempt to fire its bound to be coil / coil lead / ignitor / injector resistor pack / fuel pump related. Check for spark. 1) check coil lead 2) check coil 3) check ignitor 4) check ecu ( swap ) but check for 12v at ecu also ( fuses all ok ?) ...

Stock rev2 with MHG , turbo technics s148 hybrid @ .9bar , 3" downpipe, better intercooler, and exhaust i made 299.1bhp on stock ecu and AFM. Now moved onto rev3 ecu and 1.2bar :) mucho more power. 300bhp is fairly easy to get if your engine is healthy. Rev2 head isnt restrictive it actually fl...

Peter Gidden - SBITS wrote:People of been fitting Rev3 head gaskets onto Rev1/2 engines for years with no problems.

100% Agree. Mates 400bhp on one no issues. Coolent still flows around and afaik the rev3 hg was a modification to the rev3 to improve cooling.

Plus TRD rev2 metal gasket AFAIR is actually a rev3 Metal one.

So have you replaced the coil / water temp sensor yet?

msherry21 wrote:Hi, I've checked the green water sender and I'm only getting 5v from the positive, is that right?

its the resistance across the terminals you need to check.

TBH if its as old as the car its worth swapping not very much.

Failing coil can cause this issue. Worth swapping to be sure.

To check for crank walk ( thrust bearing issues ) Look at the crank pully and get someone to press clutch in. It will move out / in when clutch is pressed if thrust bearings are gone. If it does move stop driving it untill you can fix it or it will scrap the block / crank. If thats ok its probably t...

As a last resort there is

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMvuwS3e24A

plenty of it on ebay.

dexter wrote:UPDATE: I used a new HG sealant

Causes more damage than it fixes...

If bore is ok id do a refresh if it needs an overbore etc. you may be better off sourcing another engine and refreshing that then selling the broken one on suitable for forging etc. One thing id say is find out why it went pop. because if you just refresh everything and put it back together it will ...

Sounds like a vac leak when hot to me. Check around injector / tvis etc also leaking rocker cover gasket causes an air leak. But also as said the AFM could be on its way out / sticking. You cant put the rotor arm on wrong or the cap so timing cant be out if was set originally right. Timing can only ...

Early rev1 has a different pinout to later rev1. If early rev1 you need to swap several wires if later rev1 its only 3-4 wires. Check your original ecu part number to find if early or late. you may have repined from incorrect diagram. Car will start on rev1 igniter but not rev high until you fit a r...

5yrs and counting on mine

Hunting like that is usually an air leek around manifold. Could be injector seal or manifold gasket area.

Id say something in wiring, have you got correct ignitor for rev2?

Before replacing gasket make sure all of the screws are tight if not tighten them then remove the oil puddle and see if still leaks. If its still got the philips head screws replace them with allen bolts they are easier to tighten. If it still leaks its an 1hrs job to swap the rocker cover gaskets. ...

That would be your overfueling then. Regulator pressure would be to high at idle as it wouldnt see the vacum.