www.imoc.co.uk

i presume youve unplugged the relay and bridged it hence why its starts. Id suggest swapping the relay as it sounds like its gone bad??

Lee H wrote:Running a walbro 255 pump.

Will dig out the ARP sheet later but 70ft lb rings a bell.

Thats the right one tq. Did you slacken then retorque ? ARP's need a heat cycle then re torque of HG probs. If you didnt give it a go. Costs nothing.

It could also be a blocked radiator?

Have you re torqued the head. ARP's need a re torque and do you know what they were torqued upto as original instructions with ARP's were wrong and you may have an old boxed set.

Disconnect battery Remove pipe from throttle body remove throttle body brace remove throttle body and coolent lines / idle control rubber hose. Put a rag around fuel rail fuel inlet big nut. Undo the big nut some fuel will leak out not a lot if car has been left for a few hrs. Undo fuel line from pr...

6yrs and counting on my tt s148

My view ( personal ) on why rebuilt turbos tend to fail. Ive seen many rebuilt turbos fail over the years and the vast majority i would say are not down to bad turbos but bad fitting. Ive seen post for example that go like this. 1) My turbo has blown what do i do? 2) Rebuild it and refit. 3) Ive fit...

wouldnt worry unless its missing and trying to stall.

gnzyza wrote:For those with ct20B I was told by TT that the shaft or ceramic wheel often breakes when removing? so they will probably replace, I only wanted seals and bearing replaced if necessary. is that the case with the ceramic wheel shaft?

unfortunatly the shaft is brittle so quite possible

more power from rev3 is almost totally down to beter stock cams/manifold/turbo/ecu and a bit more boost. The actual rev3 head has little advantage and is actually a bit worse in some respects. Rev2 engines also seem to make more touque. TVIS can be left in use well into 500bhp its activation point j...

Some actual test data

Seen a turbo technics s148 make 377bhp @ 1.4bar did make 400hp @ 1.6 with good mapping and 264 cams.

Get a mate to press the clutch so it stalls. Whilst doing this look underneath car at the crank pully. If it moves in or out its thrust bearings and engine out job to fix. Will probably need a new crank and maybe block depending on how long they have been bad.

MHG , hybrid, decat and exhaust, better intercooling and i got 299.1 bhp

Its possible.

But needs to be a healthy engine.

Id say ignitor or a bad earth.

Had this on mine and it was a combination of both.

dont use dot 5.1, performance fluid is mostly dot 4 and is usually way past the specification of dot 5.1.

5.1 AFAIK is for road cars that has a long life between changes.

If you track a car at least replace fluid every yea...

How about using a longer bolt and nut on back? cant remember exactly but im sure the holes go all the way through? Fiddly but possible..

Useable RPM range: 1000 - 7650rpm stock rev limit Redline RPM: 7650rpm Engine displacement: 1998cc Comp ratio: rough calculation based on piston cr of 9:0:1 & new HG thicknes 1.30 (compressed) about 8.8:0:1 Intake valve size: more info here http://gtfour.supras.org.nz/3sgte%20table.htm hope that...

My guess is either an air leak somewhere or your AFM is playing up.

air leak or possibly bad afm would cause high mpg and or slow throttle response

TCB parts can supply oem metal/paper equivalants they are as good as toyota. ....

http://www.tcbparts.co.uk/