www.imoc.co.uk

Have a good day mate. Go hard.

I'm taking my new daily driver to the track next month when racing starts again for the season. Toyota Blade Master G. Essentially it's and Auris with Lexus ES350 running gear. 276hp 2GR-FE

The other option is a rubber mallet and heat gun. Heat the arch up and then flatten the lip inside the arch. Did my last car like that, it had 17x8.5 +30 with 245/40 on the rear. Took about 10 minutes.

Throw that boost controller in the bin and buy a Blitz/HKS/Apexi unit.

Those gizzmos are more trouble than they are worth.

Open the boost valve. I assume you have a boost gauge that shows you only running 7psi?

Disabling the t/vsv puts it in low boost mode so you can then wind more boost in it.

Twinplate. Do it once, do it right.

QUOC2008 wrote:
Rev 3 stock will run more if you don't go forge.
Rods are stronger but only 350bhp is limit I believe

Gen2/3 rods have been proven to handle 700+whp. The only reason you replace them in a forged build is if you want something lighter that is just as strong.

You would want to replace the manifold before it warps, like they all seem to.

Lol @ the turbo being better than the ct20b.

I never got why people don't go for the rev4 or even 5 3sgte as surely they are the most advanced with the least issues. I always wondered why everyone ranted and raved about the rev 3.... The limitations imposed by the one piece turbo/exhaust manifold would be my guess. The 3rd generation also has...

The downside to the Caldina engine is the toothpick rods.

Makes the car rev happier than previous generations, no where near as tough.

NGK or Denso.

Bosch are garbage.

Not worth the cost to get it to work. It's a single entry turbo.

Code 34 is overboost. That will go away if you clear codes and don't hit it again. Code 14 is the ignition signal, it's probably not the ignitor, so my money would be on a leaky cap in the ecu. Try and swap your ecu with a known working unit. Your code 52 is the knock sensor. Just make sure you fit ...

For some reason brake threads always end in a slanging match, if you want to fit a BBK then do research and go with how you feel once you've done the research. Those of us that have done a BBK are pretty happy with the results and the car doesn't want to swap ends. If you use OEM (from another car)...

Upgraded brakes are awesome for the track, wheel you will be making repeated hard stops from speed. They will dissipate heat better than stock, however stock 1992+ brakes are really good. You only have two contact patches in your braking system. The pad and the rotor and the tyre and the road. If yo...

paulharry wrote:

Al-sw20 wrote:This is for cosmetic reasons right ? Because the 1992+ brakes in good condition with some quality pads and fluid are all you will need ever on the road

No it's to make the car stop a little bit quicker

You may as well set fire to your money then.

This is for cosmetic reasons right ? Because the 1992+ brakes in good condition with some quality pads and fluid are all you will need ever on the road

Buy a cheap multimeter from eBay and use YouTube to learn how to use it to find power wires.

Overfuelling the stock regulator?

Possible. It happens on the 4AGE when people fit a big Walbro because they are cheap to buy.

androo007 wrote:Hp not whp

Wheel horse power.

Definitely think this has cracked the 300whp Jim. Chuck it on a dyno.

Big congrats. Once that launch is sussed you will have low 12s. As you say, just need more sidewall.

Drag strip is the ultimate dyno.

114mph is comfortably over 300 whp.

Not bad from a throw away ct20b