www.imoc.co.uk

Just fit copper plugs. NGK BKR6E if stock. BKR7E if you are running more boost than stock. I pay $12nzd for a set of four from Toyota here which is about 6 quid.

I can see why yours was cutting. Your tyre is basically up in the guard

17x9 with 255s would only need the lip folded up with an offset of +35. For your 235/40R17 on a 7.5" rim with a +43 offset a 25mm spacer will have you about 2mm from flush. You may get away with no guard rolling. Doubt it. Mine was cutting the tyre - 235/40R17 8J ET31. How low were you? That i...

Yep, check fuel pressure.

I've done the calculations on the info you have provided. Remember when the wheel goes up into the arch it moves slightly inwards. If you are really worried, then get a 20mm spacer and then you definitely won't need to roll at all. It won't be flush though. If you wanted to go the other way and make...

17x9 with 255s would only need the lip folded up with an offset of +35.

For your 235/40R17 on a 7.5" rim with a +43 offset a 25mm spacer will have you about 2mm from flush. You may get away with no guard rolling.

BEB

Yeah depending on the offset you may not need spacers. If the offset was around +20-25 you wouldn't. If it was 40 or so you would .

It won't actually be the arches you need to roll, just the little lip inside. I was dubious about taking even a rubber mallet to mine but as long as you get the paint hot enough it won't crack.

Do it yourself. A rubber mallet and a heat gun.

Heat the guard up around the lip really really well, then flatten the inner lip upwards. That will be all you need to do, it's literally a 10 minute job each side.

Quicker response between shifts. The turbocharger doesn't have to fill the entire outlet to throttle body piping again with compressed air.


An AFM equipped car might run rough because it measures the air pre turbocharger.

Screamer pipe is a short piece of pipe that vents to the atmosphere straight off an external wastegate rather than rerouting the exhaust gas back into the exhaust further along. They scream when the car is under load/boost as the expelled exhaust gases just get dumped straight out. Generally sounds ...

Had both. Prefer tintop.

T top leaked and I really didn't want to fix it as it was garaged so only leaked when I got caught in the rain, which isn't very often where I live in New Zealand.

Looking at buying another tintop, 1995 turbo in SMG.

Except it's not compressor surge. That happens under load.

mr2magic wrote:I'll just leave this here:
http://www.themotorhood.com/themotorhoo ... he-experts

You don't need it, but it's cheaper than buying a new turbo if and when it lets go.

just my 0,02

Do ST185 Celica GT-Fours turbos let go?

markstevieandmads wrote:So why did Toyota put a OEM bov on it in the first place?

For emissions and to stop the turbo making fart noises between shifts .

The ST185 GT-Four has the same 3sgte as the SW20. No BPV/BOV. They don't have failing turbos.

shinny wrote:

cooper514 wrote:And I'll only be going to Ryan @ 2bartuning for mapping

No you won't... apparently he's moved to New Zealand or something

Smart man.

Straight forward swap since you have both cars.

Lose the CT series turbo if you want to make some power.

What I mean by 3rd then go WOT is drive along, 1st gear, 2nd gear then into 3rd gear and WOT = wide open throttle. Mash that gas pedal into the floor and watch the boost gauge.

Yes you can plug your boost gauge into that port.