www.imoc.co.uk

prob get shouted at for saying this but xxxx does laser cut ones in two different sizes, tbh its a bit of a crude way of trying to control boost.

guess its the problem with hybrids.

cheers karam

try a wet test in the down cylinder to see if it seals the rings, if it does thats an indication of the condition of the cylinder.

are you getting any excess blow by?

i would also get a sniffer test on your coolant to look for presence of exhaust gas.

cheers karam

shouldnt see why not, i use a ester based millers 5w40 synthetic oil, worked well for 4 years.

cheers karam

the stock crank and flywhel were designed to use this pulley, obviously if your rebuilding and get the whole assembley balanced with a alloy pulley or even a painted one then that should be fine.

cheers karam

i wouldnt use mobil one, talk to oilman on here, works for opie oils and what he dosnt know about oil is just crap.

cheers karam

very very easy, i used the rev and throttle input as it makes boost control better than using a speed input.

cheers karam

i think ceramic coating or chrome is your only chance.

cheers karam

u need to set it with the engine off and with the vacuum line installed.

think its something like 38psi base with engine off..

cheers karam

i believe you need a m12 12 point long reach socket.

cheers karam

this is very common on the cheater ct style downpipes, usualy people tend to open the flange up on the inside.

cheers karam

i would either contact rogue or century motorsport, both on herel.

cheers karam

one of the mounting points come close on the cambelt side but the other two you need to get rid of since the coolant housing is in the way. they in and out pipes i found i needed to trim aswel as the cam cover breather, (if its a rev1) cheers karam p.s. these might help but not sure. http://i61.phot...

i would look into thermal products for insulating your cables. you can buy sleeves to protect your ht leads, you could just use it for the cc sensor. they have a foil side and the other is glass fibre.

have a look on demon tweeks motorsport section

cheers karam

ye thats rigth the caliper, carrier and the discs are needed. there a little thicker to stop over heating and have a bigger surface area.

i did this upgrade with goodridge hoses and all i noticed apart from the better braking is a little more pedal travel before biting properly.

cheers karam

yep best bet is to lock the flywheel, its very easy and you can ususly use a screw driver in the teeth to lock it.

cheers karam

has been discussed lots on here , use the search function or you can use my name in the search as i've posted a little about chargecoolers.

cheers karam

hey i use the same plugs as bri used in yours, i tend to change them every 6-7k, its a pain to remove the cooler but its not done often so its alright, easier to get to the oil filter though with the downpipe and chargecooler. just out of intrest how are you finding the car, i liked the exhaust note...

sounds like you have an air leak, could be to do with the idle valve and your air flow meter. check all hoses and vacuum lines then check them again.

after all that reset your ecu and go for a spin.

cheers karam

man i do feel for you,

if you want help with a boost controler let me know, i dont mind popping up to install and help you set up for a few beer tokens.

cheers karam

if you put a boost controler on your car thats when ur gonna notice the difference, i would recomend the apexi or the hks evc 6 (i jus got one) both very adaptable and have proven results from top tuners.

cheers karam