www.imoc.co.uk

i don't unfortunately and i no longer have an mr2 so i can't check. however, if you take the trim off inside the front bonnet you can see where the rubber joining pieces link the brass pipes and the heater so you can measure that. i seem to remember that it was around 19mm, but don't go out and buy ...

no chance of doing Donny again then? i really enjoyed donny and its pretty central.

not so useful for me long term as i no longer have an mr2, but i have posted a how to on replacing the heater hoses on top of the fuel tank in the mechanical section. i just wanted to make sure that the help won't be lost.

The brass heater pipes on top of the fuel tank seem to be prone to cracking on the Mk2 and are expensive to replace because replacing them involves removing the fuel tank. To replace both pipes you are looking at approximatly £200 for the pipes themselves + the labour which toyota quote at about £60...

in the mean time would it be worth setting up a how to thread section that people can post their how to's in. any questions would be answered on the same thread and would be useful reference for people with the same problems in the future?

agreed, but i think that a lot of owners get confused by the gurgling noise that the charcoal canister makes and think that is the coolant boiling. i really don't think that anywhere near 50% of sw20's have coolant leaks. I think about 50% of sw20's have a minor leak somewhere, usually not enough to...

when you say the long coolant pipe, do you mean the heater pipes that run along the top of the fuel tank? these are prone to cracking and can cause exactly the leak you describe and because it drips on the under trays it can be a nightmate to track down. the best way to track this leak down is to le...

they seem to vary with no real contunuity. you'll have to get under the car and measure it with vernier callipers to be sure. then come down 1 mm and order that size from fensport.

the procedure is to remove the fuses for 30 seconds or so, replace and then go out and drive the car hard. the idle will drop to 500 rpm for a while until the ecu relearns and the timing resets. i'm assuming you have a rev2 are you running on optimax? are you plugs, dissy cap, rotor arm and leads in...

Is this possible?

its actually a brass pipe, there are a pair of them, and they are heater pipes. they run along the top of the fuel tank and the leak will be at a tab where the pipes are bolted to the chassis. i would be very suprised if you could get at the leak to seal it, and even if you do it will start to leak ...

i think the point is at the end of the day it is a rev1 full stop and has done 80k miles. yes the engine has been rebuilt, and potentially can make more power than standard but it still has the early rev1 suspension geometry, and with the exception of the engine, the car has had 80k miles and 15 yea...

i actually agree with mike. I sold my 92 rev2 turbo t-bar in mint standard condition for £4k a year ago. mr2 turbos, particularly early ones aren't worth beans anymore. you might get lucky and get someone willing to pay extra for the mods, but you'll have to hold out for the right buyer.

michael wrote:£3000

the manual seems to indicate a tensioning spring, that pesumably means that the pulley should be able to move and the tensioning spring keeps the tension.

unless of course i'm misunderstanding what you are saying in your post.

very true unfortunatly. the value of mr2 turbo's has dropped so much that almost any chav can own a sub 6 second 0-60 car that can have the boost turned up relatively and cheaply. the good news is that it won't take long for them to be trashed. when i was looking to replace my car last year its the ...

presumably you have to sacrifice a set of rob bolts to check the clearances are correct and then put another set in when you reassemble the engine for real.

thats always the problem with buying a neglected car. if there is something serious wrong with it, the chances are that you will come across a few other little time bombs in the course of the rebuild.

unfortunatly you can't service neglect out of a car. you have to buy it out.

mt90 can help with notchy changes and failing synchros. i changed the oil on my turbo box to mt90 and it made a big difference to 2nd gear synchro. i used to have to be very slow changing up but with mt90 the change was much improved.

i got away without the disc warping when this happened on my old turbo. but don't think you can just get away with unsticking the seized piston. it will only seize again. get a refubed exhange from brakes international. Hi On mway this morn got bad vibration - stopped and left front wheel very hot. ...

cars are normally lowered by using shorter springs, so yes your original shocks would need to be used. fitting turbo shocks would be a bad idea unless you fit the turbo springs with them