www.imoc.co.uk

Thanks Paul, the multimeter says 12volts and reads the same as when I touch directly to the battery. I've also tried an aftermarket horn, grounded separately etc and still no joy.

It's going in the garage for now, I've lost patience!

Bump - I've started another thread because I still can't fix the fecking horn forums/viewtopic.php?p=1708203

I've been tearing my hair out over this, I can't get it through the MOT because of it, so I'm all ears to a bodge fix. Horn hasn't worked for a while now. Put through MOT and all is well, just need this sorted to get a pass (only got a day left though before 10 days is up). Relay makes a tick noise ...

Haha very good.

Replacement ECU arrived and installed, and no engine light! No idea what could still be wrong with the old one then, I've repaired all the traces that look remotely damaged and replaced all the capacitors which I had spares for. Thanks for all the help in this thread, I would have gotten a replaceme...

Hmm, just tried that and it makes the relay go nuts, makes a screeching sound. :? Tried disconnecting the relay completely with the jumper trick, car starts and runs, but sure enough after 10-20 seconds the engine light still comes on! ](*,) I bought that ebay ECU, so will swap that out in a few day...

Checked and cleaned several earth points in the engine bay area and still the same problem. Anyone know of a used ECU for sale? Just so I can rule it out. P/N is 89661-17380. There's one on eBay currently, I've messaged the seller to ask about the caps... I also think this fuel pump relay must be re...

I opened up the ECU again today and added several more jumper wires to every connection which might have looked even a tiny bit suspect (even though continuity was fine). Still the same

Could it be an earthing issue somewhere?

I tried that, basically the engine light flashes constantly at first, and then the light turns solid (matching it turning on when not in diag mode). It doesn't throw up a code :( Weirdly if I remove the paperclip with it running and reinsert it again, the engine rpm picks up for a few seconds then ...

I've replaced the o2 sensor, still no luck: https://youtu.be/bB7t4IqJtp0
More: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPV8AyRSgxQ

Are there any non-critical relays I could swap out with the fuel one to see if that makes any difference?

I tried that, basically the engine light flashes constantly at first, and then the light turns solid (matching it turning on when not in diag mode). It doesn't throw up a code :( Weirdly if I remove the paperclip with it running and reinsert it again, the engine rpm picks up for a few seconds then b...

Yeah if I do the paperclip test it just flashes normally

Hi guys, unfortunately this is still happening :cry: Something I've discovered today though, is it's related to the pump relay. Basically if I start the engine, after idling for 10-20 seconds, just as the engine is almost fully settled, the engine check light will turn on, and at exactly the same ti...

SonicSW20 wrote:So to confirm, when you put it in diagnostic mode the engine light just flashes at you at a regular interval, indicating no codes stored?

How is the car running otherwise?

Yep exactly. Car seems to be running fine!

Yep, the trace on the capacitor side was ruined from the corrosion, which is the reason for the jumper wire (on the reverse side which was easier to solder)

Update: I opened up the ECU, and sure enough, two of the 10uF ones were leaking and clearly needed replacing. https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/552518622447271948/578569138163941386/WhatsApp_Image_2019-05-15_at_20.00.04.jpeg After replacing them, I tested the car again, and nothing. After a cou...

Hi all. For about 6 months now the engine check light in the dash has been on / off intermittently and I've no idea as to the cause. It's never on during the very first few seconds of engine running, and after that it's on roughly 75% of the time and starts to turn off if the engine gets really warm...

Upon removing the ignition pack the other week I ordered a replacement in better condition, as it was cracked and really badly corroded. Having fitted the replacement today, I'm still having problems. The car started and idled for a couple of mins before it started to cut out and eventually die. It ...

Thanks the tips guys. I tried starting again today with another plug fitted outside the block and it wasn't sparking for the first few cranks but then this time did start sparking. Popped the lead back on and it fired up, albeit hesitantly. I guess I need to look at the distributor more closely