www.imoc.co.uk

Sorry for the massive delay in getting back to this. Didn't realise there was another reply but figured I'd pop back on and post what it ended up being in case anyone else ever has the issue. So where the cable is clamped in to the metal sleeve at the end of the cable that connects to the gear stick...

How did you get on in the end??

Also to those that have experience of this, do agreed valuations help in this situation?

I've been considering getting my Rev 3 turbo covered with an agreed valuation with Adrian Flux.

UK and JDM rub strips are different. UK sit proud, and the JDM ones are more flush. UK and JDM rub strips are different. UK sit proud, and the JDM ones are more flush. Correct answer. Same applies to the strip on the front wing before the wheel arch. Cheers for the replies but do you happen to know...

I’m in the market for a passenger door for my rev 3 turbo and believe that on the UK doors, the strip that runs along them sits more proud. Is it the trim that’s actually thicker on the UK door or the gap they sit in shallower? Just wondering if I could take the strip off my door and put it on a uk ...

Bushes or more likely been replaced with bearings on the gear cable are loose is my 1st guess. I've seen lots replaced by bearings and had too small or not enough washers to keep it tight when the "R" clip is refitted. Prob no R clip instead a split pin been used. Yeah they were replaced ...

Sounds like one of your cables have snapped to me. I thought that initially but then thought wouldn’t that also effect the bottom gears too as one cable takes care of the up and down and the other the left and right. Another thing is that when I got in the car to go home, all gears were selectable ...

Afternoon all. Just come back from getting my Mk2 Rev3 tubby MOT'd. When they were trying to get it on to the rollers for the brake test, they came and asked me how to get it in to 1st gear as they wouldn't work it out. I thought it was a bit odd as it's sometimes a little fiddly but nothing major. ...

Sourced one now.

Assume I'm too late for this?

Can the alt squeeze out the top if it's removed from the bracket and the bracket moved out of the way?

I've read it can be moved to the other side of the car to get out?

I'd rather not remove the exhaust B section as some of the bolts look interesting.

I'm thinking the original alternator is going back in to be fair providing I can get the pulley moving again.

Isn't the bracket different on the NA compared to the turbo?

Happen to know where the bolts / mounts are for the bracket to take the whole thing out as one if needed?

Afternoon all. Hadn't driven the MR2 for a couple of weeks while I was doing some other work to it so when I finally tried to start it, it kept cutting out. Realised the alternator had seized when I smelt the belt burning and had a friend looking it at and could see it not moving at all. Figured we'...

Got one of these myself and have been looking at cleaning the filter so figured I'd pass this on.

You wouldn't really need to replace the filter.

http://www.metropower.org.uk/forum/foru ... 73&posts=1

PM about plugs.

How are the internal sensors fitted?

Never heard a Berk. How does it compare in sound to a Mongoose?

Always hear good things about them.

PM'd regarding tie links.

Good price also on the Bomex. Not for me but that probably won't stick around long!

PM'd regarding Rev 3 spoiler if available still I'll have it.

PM'd about the engine bay strut.

PM'd about the engine bay strut.