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Thanks for the input, the main benefit for me was never really weight distribution to begin with, moving the battery to the frunk allows more space for a charge-cooler or an uprated intercooler which I'm looking at doing in the future. That and I've seen multiple users claim that the stock battery t...

Would you happen to have any more of these kicking about?

Almost every Mk1 i've engine converted in the last 20 years has had a front battery relocation, so i've done a lot of them! The battery is best placed on the little "shelf" on the right hand side (as you look at it from the front), a simple angle iron frame with one leg makes the battery ...

Is there a set 'best' way to do this? Plan is to relocate with a fuse on the live and a single earth to the chassis. I've seen threads with people claiming it's better to have a second earth going back to the gearbox but it seems a tad unnecessary if you already have a good earth in the frunk. Also ...

The benefit is your engine gets all the boost pressure and it doesn't get leaked out through the ABV. I used to spend a lot of time on the US SC forum. After a while I realised that they do seem to talk a lot of crap. That was my experience ten years ago, no idea if it has changed or not, but I dou...

I see, so there's no real benefits whatsoever to just bypassing it then?

Just blank it off. Doing the ABV mod is a crap way of doing it. There seems to be no downsides into blanking off the ABV entirely. I did this for 30K miles as did others I know. No problem. It's a no brainer as we tried the 'ABV mod' and found it weeped boost pressure. I've heard claims that blanki...

Alright so after some research I've seen some good arguments on either side of the fence for both bypassing and blanking off the ABV when you fit a bigger pulley. From what I gather, it's better to blank off the ABV when dealing with one of the larger crank pulleys (I'm going for the 176mm Fensport ...

Don't suppose you'd have a mechanical delimiter for a rev1 kicking about?

I would also say 195's is plenty. I would say 7.5" is ideal for this width. 7.5" on 215s is fine, I run this size tyre but with an 8" rim on my TE37's. I do like the tyres to be a little stretched to take the slack out of the sidewalls though. You will get some bad tramlining on an M...

On a mk1, if your running stock power, 215 is way to wide, 195 is optimal. Even 205 will tramline, it's the offset and stud/spacing that will Hogan actual wheel sizes more. This is just my opinion, but one that a good few mk1 owners probably share. Happy wheel hunting Thanks for the reply, it's a s...

Hey guys I'm after some new shoes, got an eye on some Rays TE37v's. I've currently got some 15's on with 215/50 tyres. I ideally want to stick with 15s but I'm not too sure on the width, would 7.5 with 215/50 tyres be alright or would I end up needing spacers? Any other wheel recommendations you've ...

The biggest issue is intercooling. Chris is unlikely to track his car I would say, so there is no need to worry about a piggy back ECU or a standalone one. Many, many people have run JDM 4AGZE's with big pulleys without issues for years. I used my old car a lot on track, with no issues, the interco...

Mine ran fine with a 175mm pulley and standard ECU. If anything I think they err towards running slightly rich, but I'm sure someone more knowledgable will be along shortly :thumleft: I assume you're aware of the corresponding ABV mod that's necessary to make use of the extra boost? Yeah I know abo...

Hi guys, interested in buying a bigger pulley for some extra boost but I've heard accounts of 4AGZEs encountering lean running in higher rpm when a bigger pulley is used, from what I tell it's more so the USDM models rather than the JDM ones but if anyone's had some first hand experience with it, wa...