www.imoc.co.uk

I got a complete exhaust for AW11 sat at the back of my workshop. Downpipe flexi centre and rear box..

Just order one from TCB they will sort you.

Hi,
You may want to ask on mr2roc.org as much busier than this forum especially as many more mk3 owners on there.
They are surprisingly roomy.
Cheers.
Jon

Check the coil for cracks, usually they split allowing moisture in.
With the engine running if you have a grab around the coil you will probably get a zap from it.
Not a great idea but that is how I found the last faulty coil.
Safer to just remove and inspect it.

I'd certainly be checking the slave cylinder for leaks and smooth operation.
A Blue print replacement is about £70 I think.
Just pull the rubber boot back. Its probably weeping possibly drawing in air.

Its most likely the switch on the back of the door lock itself faulty. They are avail to buy still.
You may be able to swap the passenger side to drivers side to test. I can't remember if they are handed or not.

Just checked MR2ben, they are £56 and not handed
, could try TCB also.

Have you checked the ECU for blown caps?
Worth a look...

Sure its not the relay at fault and not the pump?

Also with the high lambda, if you have a twin exit exhaust sometimes its worth blocking the other exit with a rag while doing the test.

Are you getting a spark on all 4 when cranking? Laser tools do little lights that fit on top of each plug as a visual check (worth the £10 quid ish at machine mart or wherever)
Safer than resting them on the rocker cover to check sparks.
Any fault codes stored?
Fuel and fuel pressure?

How old is the fuel in it?
Is the fuel enrichment staying on?
Temp sender faulty?
Fuel pressure good?

Control box has given up most likely.
Blue (i think) box on rhs when looking into frunk.
Pop it open and have a look or borrow a spare to test it.

Euro car prats do em for about £75 each last time I checked. Take yours off get a lift to ECP swap em for new ones... No surcharge no wasted time.

The crank can be removed with the engine in place but by the time you have removed gearbox, clutch, rear main oil seal, then cam belt and oil pump struggling with it in place.
I'd say much easier with the engine removed and you can address any other issues you come across along the way.

Bushes or more likely been replaced with bearings on the gear cable are loose is my 1st guess.
I've seen lots replaced by bearings and had too small or not enough washers to keep it tight when the "R" clip is refitted.
Prob no R clip instead a split pin been used.

I've had a few repaired at a local exhaust fabricator when they have corroded between cat and rear box.
If the rest of it looks pretty healthy a repair would work out cheaper or look about for a used unit in better condition.
I think the repair was around £85.

Well overdue a refresh then.... Yellow Billies time I recon.

That was standard on the rear box from factory.
I've never seen anything put in instead of the bung.

Easy way is to mark the belt and the pulleys. Remove belt, mark the new belt up exactly the same then install with the marks to the pulley marks.
Providing the belt timing was correct to begin with of course.

BIGG RED