www.imoc.co.uk

The front swaybar had ripped the mounting points though it looks to be stock. It's not uncommon, even on -- you'd assume -- relatively gently driven n/a cars. Weld up the crack and then weld on a re-enforcing plate. One of the tweaking places in the States sells them, but easy enough to fab somethi...

So, that's us, some 911s, and the Countach (so far).

I'll pop something on Pistonheads, see if there's owt else.

"Please Mr Uniroyal, make a tyre for me......" (complete, to the music of Mr Tamborine Man, in your own time).

I would try the springs first. If the ride is still too harsh, look at the bushes.

You could always replace those a pair at a time anyway.

Pretty sure that the springs will be identical.

Not a clue about the ROM.

Can you tell us a bit about the kit car?

Only use good quality hubcentric spacers that include a spigot to support and center the wheels, hubcentric spaces bolt onto the hub, the wheels then bolt onto the spacers. Some do, some simply use longer studs. As long as they have the spigot, they'll be fine. Stay well away from horrible "un...

Can you post the rest of the figures? High CO or hydrocarbons might account for the CO2 post cat fitting.

The cat actually converts CO to CO2. So you'd expect CO2 might increase.

Bob has it, I think. Were it the shims causing the rattle, you'd expect to hear it just as much at idle (and probably more easily). Crafty use of an engine stethescope (they're less than a tenner) might help tie it down more precisely. This isn't to say that the shims don't need doing. You've taken ...

You should have done the shims while the head was off the car -- it's the easier way. There's pretty much everything you need to know in the Big Green Book. My guess is: a. The shims are case hardened -- if so it's possible to grind through the case hardening b. You'll be able to shuffle some of the...

Some links here at MR2OC. Not 100% your car is there, but a good place to start.

I'd be stunned if new ones were not still available. Aisin are still manufacturing the Mk1 one!

Some new ones on eBay (Delco, etc.).

Is it just us, though?

I'm not an auto-electrician, but believe that fuel injectors are relatively simple solenoid valves. so wouldn't expect the wires being the wrong way round to have any effect. But having said that, I just took out a set of Weber injectors I have lying about, and they have + and - on them. :-k Anyway,...

acf8181 wrote:Rainsports are my tyre of choice (2's are amazing, 3's even better!)

Sadly can't get them in the o.e. mr2 mk2 rear size

I wonder -- if we wrote them a nice letter?

My experience with Rainsports is limited to smaller, slower cars than the MR2, but I loved them.

They do wear pretty quickly, some folk hate the relatively soft sidewalls (although that tends to make them better on lowered, firmly damped cars), but for grip, wet and dry, they were outstanding.

I'm not sure I know what you mean.

Some stuff from one of the US tuning bit suppliers, too? ATS perhaps?

Easy way to rule in or out is to swap the injector for another one.

If it still runs OK with the stock filter and etc. I'd suspect that something is being tweaked, nudged or tripped by the fitting of the new filter. What, though, is anyone's guess.