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acf8181 wrote:Check wire to the engine bay fan would be where i'd look....easy to knock whilst doing alt i would've thought (could have been very deteriorated inside)

But when I disconnect the sensor and turn on the ignition the fan turns on, so does this mean the wiring to the fan is ok?

I've a spare sensor you can have im assuming it's the pointy black denso one that goes on the engine lid? You need to be more methodical in your fiddling to rule things out but id be suspecting a loose connection somewhere possibly the alternator plug as it's been disturbed recently Thank you for y...

Nobody knows anything................

Had a fiddle around with the relay,sensor and fuses, went for a drive and no red engine fan symbol on, got back home and it came back on.








ANYBODY HERE?

Anyone got an engine bay sensor that they don't want that I could try to see if it's that?

Just out of interest, how long do we think we can keep these cars going before they break down irretrievably from electrical problems, can't see any of these modernish wonders being in anyone's collections in 100 years time, unlike the simpler models from 50/100 years ago.

Is it worth checking the 3 wires to the alternator again?
Could it be the black/yellow wire to the alternator plug, or rather the wire that I bypassed the black/yellow wire with?

Can someone help.......After solving my dodgy alternator wiring problem and having enjoyed a few weeks driving I now have a new problem.....I've got the red engine fan warning symbol come up on the dash. If I disconnect the sensor on the engine lid with the engine running nothing happens but if I di...

MR2 Turbo Boy wrote:We all make mistakes, DONT be a xxxx...

xxxx

Failing that you can get the ecu repaired like I did, cost me 40quid.

MR2 Turbo Boy wrote:If you break I could be interested in the Link ECU..

READ the post, his son has sold it...........

Yes stick to your guns on the price, decent MR2 turbos that have been well looked after are going to be highly sought after.

Lee, How did you sort out the slack in the "bonnet" release mechanism? Exact same issue with mine, have to pull on the louvres to get it to "pop". Lovely car btw, must be great to drive down there :thumleft: Looks like he popped in a plastic sleeve cut at an angle to provide a g...

OK, the black/yellow wire comes from ignition main relay, through ECU-IG fuse, and then to the 3 pin plug. So now measure voltage at the ECU-IG fuse in the engine bay fuse box. To eliminate any issues with the fuse/fuse terminals, measure the voltage both sides of the fuse (again, using the engine ...

The voltages at the pins as you look at the connector are.... Left pin.. black and white/yellow? wire=3.8v middle pin=11.9v right pin=11.8v Hope you can help. OK, the black/yellow wire comes from ignition main relay, through ECU-IG fuse, and then to the 3 pin plug. So now measure voltage at the ECU...

The voltages at the pins as you look at the connector are.... Left pin.. black and white/yellow? wire=3.8v middle pin=11.9v right pin=11.8v Hope you can help. OK, the black/yellow wire comes from ignition main relay, through ECU-IG fuse, and then to the 3 pin plug. So now measure voltage at the ECU...

Well I managed to replace the alternator in my car today. Car started fine so I checked the voltage across the battery and it read 12.05v with the engine idling, is this normal? No. Should be around 13.6-14V. So now you have to find where the fault lies. Is the replacement alternator known to be in...

Well I managed to replace the alternator in my car today. Car started fine so I checked the voltage across the battery and it read 12.05v with the engine idling, is this normal? Engine seemed to be idling high at about 1100rpm.

headrushuk wrote:nice what mods think the best for 300 bhp

You haven't actually seen the car yet have you?
I would wait until you've seen the car, bought it and driven it for while before you start making plans for mods

Good luck.