www.imoc.co.uk

I put one on my Rev 2, I have a wide band, AFRs are fine. Fueling can be adjusted via an internal rotary dial. Info on them here, including install/set up manual.

http://1jzmerc.com/hks-faq/hardware/pfc-f-con

No longer required.

All terrain tyres are the way forward at Crail!

Yeah I was $80 to get them shipped over here...

Yeah that was me, saw a couple other blacks two's, were you there? Yeah I wasn't expecting it at all, didn't even know stronger ones were available until the guy towing me back round told me to get them (he used to have one). Have ordered the CRW stage 1 kit from twosRus, the housing is savable, but...

Worth noting the CRW ones come with a lifetime guarantee too, but I've also heard they are adapted, if anyone can find out where from that would be great for the Mr2 community :lol: What power are you running and which strip did it break on? I have had a look but can't find anything other than they...

abovetherim wrote:One of the blog posts of the blog linked in the thread "a good read" the guy changes his CV joints for beefier ones. Obviously he is in US also but that would tell you brand a d has pics.you may be able to contact him for source.

Thanks, he uses ATS ones.[/quote]

Had a look at the driveshaft shop, the 550HP ones are $1000. The CRW kit seems to come with more bits for less money. ATS ones may be better but not needed for my power levels. Didn't expect mine to break, must dyno it and see what it's putting out. Will try and find out which CVs CRW use, see if I ...

Burst an inner CV joint at the drag strip (4 hour drive there for it to fail on the first run!) http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s122/silent-s89/MR2/IMG_20170528_105604_zpsvmpvzys2.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s122/silent-s89/MR2/IMG_20170601_192105_zpsp86aqpxc.jpg http://i151.photobucke...

I want to test the operation of my coolant gauge. The service manual covers this on page BE-55. It specifies a '3.4W test bulb' to be used in the procedure (ground the harness connector through the bulb and the gauge should show hot). Does it have to be exactly 3.4W? Tried a parts place and they did...

Doesn't look like it has the MAP sensor with it. The 3 Bar GM sensor works in place of the original one. That's what I use in mine. Was £30-£40 from America. There's a switch inside to change the amount of fuel delivered, I set mine up with my wideband, never had it on a rolling road so no idea what...

The problem seems to be after the COR as it's letting voltage through to the FPR connector plug.

The Turbo dosen't have an oil level sensor.

Thought I fixed this months ago by cleaning the contact of the CO relay (small amount of carbon on it) as it ran fine afterwards (including a 6hr round trip to Crail strip). I recently cut out while driving and I had to bridge B+ and FP to get home. It's never cut out while driving before had always...

Thanks for the reply, I started taking it out but I noticed the TVIS blanking hose was split on the under side.

Fitted a new one and it works fine. Luckily I had only got as far as removing actuator bolts!

As title, I need to remove my actuator as it's leaking air and making me hit 20PSI

Is it possible to remove it and fit a new one with the turbo on the car?

The mounting bolts look easy but the clip looks 'difficult' to get to, any one done this before?

Thanks

Thanks for replies, that's what I was hoping.

Nice work, have you tried it on the road yet?

Are the trims round the door tops supposed to be away from body like this? Hard to get a good picture but there is a gap. Or should they be flush? They are flush further down just not at the top. Been that way since I got it and I keep forgetting to find out. Also in the last pic there is clearly da...

the gauge is from ebay but the sensor is a proper iat sensor not the sh/t one that comes with it .. i checked calibration and it was all good, there 3 to 4 seconds lag on the gauge but you get the idea :thumleft: . Can I ask which gauge and which sensor you are using? The only ones I can find are c...

Yeah it starts every time now, have been trying over a few days.

Suppose I'll just have to use it and take my meter with me.

Does any one know if it's OK to drive with B+ and FP bridged if I need to get home?

Checked ECU capacitors - all OK. Going by the wiring diagram, the fuel pump relay should be connected to bypass the resistor even with no power supplied. When the ECU powers it, it should switch to go through the resistor. So even if the relay wasn't getting a signal from ECU or wasn't working, the ...