www.imoc.co.uk

Ping me your number mate and I'll send them Monday.

Straight from CP mate.

Friend just ordered some so can likely get part number.

I'm going an unusual route mate. Will be modding my dp, not about Saturday...

Race Idiot wrote:Hmmm kinda tempted, this uses all std CT20 stuff right? When does it reach full boost.

It's residing where your car is too

forums/viewtopic.php?p=1160210

forums/viewtopic.php?p=347272

Hi Bret,

Yes mate, literally bolt on. It spools super fast, I'm not sure of exact revs.

Will listen to sensible offers. But good CT20B's are exepensive nowadays, this is far superior, so like I say, sensible offers.

Used condition, done about 1000 miles, then my block cracked, will get pics ASAP. Will need new rings, can include the stock rods and crank if required. These were all balanced.

£150 for pistons, will need new rings.

Super rare Blitz K1-380V turbo, have a bit of a google to see how good this turbo is regarded. I have receipts for a rebuild from turbo technics and it's in great condition. I've also recently fitted an upgraded forge actuator, and have a range of different springs available with it so you can play ...

So, car is back together, hasn't been test driven yet but timing checked and it's advanced by 5 degrees, this shouldn't be a massive issue when it comes to boost. And it hasn't been fully mapped yet.

We'll see if it still does the same on a drive.

Thanks bud, will also check that.

That's not an easy question to answer. Car was off the road for about two years as I built a house, I seem to remember it running actuator pressure but can't be sure. Major changes since are conversion to COP as well as some mods to my Jun intake. It has a link g4+ with timing set on the dunk using ...

What happens if you run it with the port on the turbo outlet connected directly to the actuator? All tests have been done like that. Currently the turbo is off, the waste gate is being ported to allow a bit more gas to flow, I've reduced the actuator spring so it bleeds boost quicker. If that doesn...

Ok, so update time, I have clearance the DP even though there were no signs of contact, IO have fitted a forge actuator and adjusted the preload correctly, it is still overboosting. I am using a Jun intake, BERK DP and BERK exhaust, I also have a G4+ PnP. The stock boost control is disconnected and ...

Ahhh man, it's sad to see this. Looking forward to this being done.

Let's get some more pics up as we make headway.

I have these alluminium ones, are they for t bar too?

https://goo.gl/images/kqhkvq

almeida1234 wrote:Two screws holding the actuator arm not loose or misaligned?

I will check.

I'm thinking about buying a new actuator just to rule it out.

Prior to mapping she was laid up for about two years and has been changed significantly since then. Last time I drove it, on actuator pressure it wasn't going beyond 0.5 bar. And mapping was literally getting her setup to run. She's had a COP conversion, water meth, bigger injectors etc etc etc. So ...

It was the same with the boost controller disconnected and the actuator hoses blanked. As in running only actuator pressure.

The arm seems to move ok. It's a really odd one 😔