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I wanted to relocate the the battery as well but due to my car being LHD, Paul's spot is out of question to brake MC being there.
So, later on, instead of adding 3kg of wiring for sake of weight distribution, I decided to go with lightweight battery in the original spot instead.

I did it 2 weeks ago. Didn't put it back on yet
I also wasn't looking forward to doing it at all so I ended up buying an engine crane to ease up the task a bit.

I believe, Toyota specifies torque for most bolts so people don't overdo them and strip the thread. Especially in aluminium parts where one needs to be extra careful.. I know it's obvious but one thing that isn't obvious is, people think, the tighter the bolt the more dynamic load it can withstand. ...

I haven't done thousands of bolts in my short, non-professional car enthusiasm career, so I am using my torque wrenches almost every time IF: a.) those bolts & nuts have their torque specified b.) those bolts & nuts are accessible with socket and a tq wrench The point is, not everyone is a s...

i absolutely understand your concept of function over form, but despite your best efforts to make it as ugly as possible, it turned out pretty well

it did look stupid until you bolted that rear spoiler on. it did transform the looks of it by 365 degrees. reminds me of some kind of LEGO buggy

Lauren wrote:

stenky wrote:You have to be a jew

This is not an acceptable term to use on IMOC. Please don't do it again.

You are right. No jews should have been insulted with my pesky comment, as I only tried to mock Peter 😛 I am sorry for that.

You have to be a jew

Guys, just make sure you get the C60/C64 gearbox if you want the 4.529 final drive. C63 appear to be quite common in UK celicas and that's the one I believe have (the one in Paul's photo-tutorial on page 1). Those are the less short/impressive transmissions. I have counted 69 teeth on the diff crown...

I run a mongoose. Civilised is a perfect term for what it is. Perfecly bearable for DD, long journeys, whatever.

in the front, next to the brake master cylinder

A quick fix might be removing t-top shades and tintitng the glass gaining a few milimeters, or even a whole centimeter of headroom. I am 195cm tall and have no prob fitting in with shades on and factory seats

There are a number of comparison tests. The Fiero was not all that great. Terrible interior that was bad enough to make the MR2 look good! Also it wasn't as sharp in handling and only produced similar power. It was heavier IIRC and this affected it in regards to balance and power to weight of cours...

T-bar is the most common version here.Like 4 times more than sunroofs. No superchargers, no tintops, except for maybe several us imports. But I dont have to justify my work. Ill do what i like and what i enjoy. I wanted a t-bar anyway..... On thin forum, almost anything is not worth doing, so i migh...

Tintops are extremely rare even in UK. Now imagie how many LHD ones are even remotely available in the rest of Europe. Just a clue. The number we are guessing wasnt considered a number not so long ago. I am working with what i got. 5kg here, 5 there and i believe that after investing some small fort...

So, I decided to leave the shallow waters... Volunteering as a guinea pig for my friend's starting CF company, I have had the T-Bars made of CF. The weight difference: Glass panel -> 3400g + shades (3500g maybe?) CF sandwich panel -> 900g I haven't swapped the locking mechanism yet, but on trial fit...

kaiowas wrote:You arent going to bend either type of tie rod in normal use. If you're running huge cornering loads due to slicks, aero and trick suspension or have habit of bouncing of kerbs at speed then you might have an issue but for typical road use it's a non-issue.

totally agree

bwrc wrote:This report is worth a look regarding after market rear tie bars

http://www.matrixgarage.com/content/aw1 ... e-rod-test

we're all safe who had purchased the mild steel version

edit: silly me, there's no mild steel version so I painted mine for no reason at all

ah, the poor man's MR2

urethane insert time