www.imoc.co.uk

Thanks, will try it tonight.

The car does start and drives ok. How easy is it to check the bulbs, is it just the top panel above the speedo that comes off?

I've checked the fuse and it's fine. I can't spot anything else that's not working, head and taillight's are working, indicators etc.

I had to do some wiring repairs behind the stereo because some amateur had connected the wrong wires together (alright then it was me!); anyway, everything's back together now but my handbrake and ignition lights are not working. I've checked the fuses and looked for anything I might have unplugged ...

I tried that method last year and found that it did improve the leaks, so I tried it again but it made things worse the second time.

Had some fun and games today with my new toys. The camber gauge is useful but you need a known vertical surface to calibrate it which I haven't managed to find yet so I just used it as it is. I took the wheel centres out and placed it up against the wheel; the readings were obviously out but I was a...

No problem. I changed a ball joint last weekend so I have a fair idea of what's out at the moment so should be able to use this stuff to confirm it.

Just ordered the wheel alignement kit with camber gauge off ebay, will hopefully be able to have a play at the weekend.

I think it could still be useful if replacing parts and you know which corner the alignment is out. Even so you could combine with the run over pads and get a pretty good idea of what's what. I'm going to contact Track Ace to ask about rear alignment.

I was thinking about that, glad someone else thinks the same. Strange they don't advertise it that way though.

Any tramlining at all? Sounds a bit like not enough toe in on the front end.

How does it corner? I'd expect less body roll with new shocks and possibly lighter steering as a side effect.

I have Koni's and if I stiffen them up the steering does get slightly lighter as the car goes into corners more easily.

Does it pull to the side at all and is the steering wheel straight?

If they're not broken they should be OK, might be worth checking if they're seated properly. What's actually wrong with the handling?

Did you replace the shocks at the rear?

New shocks will raise the ride height a bit. Have you done the alignment after fitting the shocks?

Ditto.

Last year one of my rear tie rod's got bent, I drove for 300 miles before fixing it and getting re-aligned; tyres were worn so they pulled to the side after just that mileage.

I'm also thinking that the problem with the drive over gauges is that if your tyres are worn unevenly (through poor alignment) then that will affect the reading.

I think the castor gauges are a lot more expensive and you also need the turntables underneath the wheel which are not cheap. There's a video on the Gunson site for it.