www.imoc.co.uk

I am selling my fun daily.

https://www.gumtree.com/p/subaru/subaru ... 1331942304

13 months MOT
Runs great
Tired bodywork
Loads of spares
£3000

Pad size thing may be related to the year as rev 1 use smaller discs. Now the squeak.... When you cleaned the brakes did you push the piston back in? Check the state of the dust seal. A good free caliper you should be able to push the piston in by hand with some force. If it requires a brake rewind ...

Before condemning the alt itself check the wiring to it. Common problem is the alt sense wire, black and yellow iirc. If you Google testing the alt wires there is plenty of info out there about how to and which wires etc. As for the alt itself, have you considered removing it yourself? Not too diffi...

Look lovely and no doubt they will add stopping power but......

Have you considered the braking bias?

First off you should be WOT when compression testing so 175 seems about right and if it is within 10 or so between cylinders then all good. Start with simple things like vac leaks. Plug leads in right order. Coolant bled properly. TPS set correctly. All injector plugs on well. Vac lines in correct p...

But make sure you have the level correct in the expansion tank and the system properly bled first.

Check setting of TPS and associated plug/wiring.
Also check the IACV, idle air control valve.

There is an expansion tank that needs to have the right level in it. Then top up via the coolant neck and bleed from the dad and the heater valve in the trunk to get all the air out. Heater needs to be on hot to do this. Once all bled and levels correct the coolant will expand and if the pressure ex...

+1 for just go to the dealer.
They are more expensive but fit properly and work! You have to order a new oring also as oem doesn't come with it

Post a wanted as
Phone TCBparts, mr2ben, Rogue, woodsports, Mr mr2 off eBay.

Sounds very much like brakes rubbing then. I would first check the handbrake mech on the back of the caliper to check it is fully off when the lever is released. These can get gunked up under the seal that sits behind the spring. If that is all good wind in the caliper piston all the way then put it...

If it is only there when rolling then it is not the clutch.. if it is the when stationary the does it go away when you depress the clutch pedal, if so thrust bearing.

Buster wrote:If anyone does this could they please post up a pic of exactly which wire to cut?

If you look at the photos enlarged you can see that the poster clipped the leg for the pin on the bottom right of the connector block. So looking at the loom plug check that the red wire goes to that position.

Open up the ECU and inspect the capacitors for swelling and leakage.

There seems to be a lot of strange running and cutting out or not starting coming from dodgy ECU's at the mo.

Also check the exhaust is not restricted by a family of furries.
Pull the plugs to see they are all the same condition.

Have a look around the slave cylinder and the Flexi line to it. You don't need to leak much to cause this problem. If there are no leaks try a 2 man bleed. With the back end up on axle stands you can get to the bleed nipple from underneath. After bleeding a couple of squirts try pushing the rod into...

Sold pending pick up Sunday.
If that don't work out ringslayer has dibs

As per the title.... Please see my gumtree ad for a full description and pics, but in useable condition and better than ripped up bolsters! https://i.imgur.com/aIaWFCG.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2FF8MCl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/sB5IU2H.jpg https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-replacement-parts/mr2-mk2-half-lea...

I got manifold nuts new from Tcb!

pop down Maplins if you have one ,or ebay ,and get a couple of capacitors 10uf (16v), Open up the blue headlight control box and Remove the right hand capacitor (just pull it upwards and it will separate from the legs) in this picture (black one ),and join the legs together, or replace with a piece ...

Thanks for the reply.
I have not checked against your description but the yes by lead for cylinder 1 nearest timing belt is on No1 on the dizzy cap. The cap is numbered!
I have double checked it four times lol