www.imoc.co.uk

FYI, the mirror screws need to be heated up to remove them IIRC, I usually hold a soldering iron on them for 30 seconds before turning them.

HTH,

Nik

I had a mongoose with a decat and it was awful, even after 30,000 miles it hadn't improved. I swapped it for a Greddy power extreme, which is fantastic, nice and quiet at tickover and when rolling along but sounds great when flooring it. The only downside is it's a bit 'in your face' with 5" ta...

I get about 32 mpg on a run and 27-30 around town. I'm considering a standalone ecu as everyone reports better cruising mpg. You just have to look at the sums to see if it's worth it for you. e.g. 25mpg = 18p per mile 40mpg = 11p per mile Therefore, if a standalone ecu costs £1000 fully fitted, mapp...

Why not try a search?

Here's one result:

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=37904

Or you could try calling some places that refurbish turbos.

Only a few days ago, 8th August.

Nik

Edit: The profile information also tells you when the account was last used, in this case yesterday (Saturday 11th at 06:03 PM)
Edit: And again today at 12:45

Whatever problems Dale has/had it's not stopping him posting on TOC.

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde ... user=15908

Same here, I sent Dale £50 for an intake manifold. The money cleared over a month ago but still no manifold. I understand he was having a bit of a nightmare with something?

Nik

Or:

www.postvan.co.uk
www.senditnow.com

Nik

Hi, The two super-long bolts will have oil on them as they go into the head, they are exposed to oil, that's why there is a seal on the top of that channel to stop the oil going any further. The oil seems thicker the closer you get to the cambelt side, might be the little o-ring round the PCV valve?...

Definately a Rev5, UK number plates though, non turbo, no G-limited badge.

http://users.autoexposure.co.uk/classic ... 515_1a.jpg

Basically just a UK rev5

Nik

If you're sure it's the piston(s), it's probably easier to just get a refurbished caliper from Brakes international or somewhere. Virtually the same price as replacing the parts yourself and turns it in to a 30 minute job.

Nik

Ah i see, Well the pads are wearing on both sides of the disc not just one so i would assume that points to a sticking piston rather than the sliders. Any good ways to fix a sticking piston or are we looking at a caliper rebuild? Could still be the sliders as the caliper is a floating design so bot...

It's just an analog to digital converter though, you could already buy one from people like Phidgets or Labjack. All it does is takes a 0v-5v input as supplied by most analog sensors such as MAP, Oil temp, oil pressure, etc. RPM and speed would be a bit more difficult as these as PWM signals althoug...

Scotster wrote:

That looks like it goes into the MAP sensor? Interesting how it appears to come from the intake and the manifold?

Nik

The sliders are what the calliper moves on due to the floating calliper design, there are two per calliper. They're just long pins with seals that press into the calliper. Have a look at the pictures on Robins excellent site:

http://www.mr2turbo.info/pics/frontbrake.html

HTH,

Nik

Hi, It should change up at around the rev limit (7200rpm or at least in 'power mode' on a mk2). Is it an import? If so maybe it is the converter/delimter that is the problem? I had this and saw 8000rpm a couple of times before hastily letting off the throttle!! The solution was to buy a twosrus deli...

PDF FTW!!

Or maybe just a JPG?

Not sure I would be pleased about having anything placed under my wiper, but maybe other people wouldn't mind?

How about a competition for the design though?

Nik

The decal is probably under the lacquer.

Might be easier to find some strips from a non-turbo and then sell yours?

Nik

Could be the 'dome' fuse in the frunk?

HTH,

Nik