www.imoc.co.uk

nightSpirit wrote:hoping this week stevo...but no idea. The H/C extensions are here mate...

mintur!!! commander can now reach the cabin!!

who's idea was it to supply 1meter cables?!

ah well, get it at the weekend possibly? i'll sort some pennies out for ya.

Bloody hell, andy jones gets it spot on & people still askin?! Or is the camera pointin at a different car now? knightspirit's is in there for, er, a bit of work!!! :wink: Any ideas on when it's due to be finished Mark (or Patrick for that matter!)? don't know if i said mark, but i'm waiting til...

I am plaesed to announce that this year A&S Signs will be hosting a Show for all japenese classic and Performance car owners, It will be held at Nostell priory near Wakefield Yorkshire, JCT 38 of A1, JCT 40 of M1. It will be on the 14th August 2005 and will be the first of many years hopefully ...

warped disc is sounding most likely at the moment mate? can you hear the pad touching the disc at all when it starts to stop (does that sound right?!)

dunno if thats of any use.

bloody hell, that was easier than typing out a reply!!

Hedgehog Dodger wrote:If you can see the metal underneath the paint (silver) then its a spray job. Where are you, as I know someone who can do sprays for very cheap.

who's that & where dan? rough cost for same colour blow over?

HTH, i've run my pipe through centre of firewall, in line with turbo.

has mainly come about as I am looking into the "goose honk" noise thing on my turbo, which has an apexi induction kit fitted. think the noise you mean can be cured by swapping around a one-way valve which clips onto the bracket where the stock re-circ dump valve fits, something to do with...

bloody hell, i jus fook about when i'm feelin pooh, u do voluntary homework!! lol pretty much got it there dude, but : A bleed valve often used to increase boost is fitted somewhere on the pressure pipe on the outgoing/exit side of the actuator, obviously before the main induction piping. the bleed ...

yeah, it's a really cr@p picture off my phone!

jus the ally housings has oxidised a bit, quick rub & it be reet!

llenrub wrote:Upon claim the isurer will/may ask where the mods where done. The engineer has a duty to provide all info necessary including Dyno charts!

blimey!! i'd better get on a RR to see what difference my new alloys & lowering have made!!

so basically split the vacuum tube & run it to both pipes?

christ, how fat is that green one?!

Well did removing the vacuum hose sort the lumpy idle? I would've said that the original BOV should have been replaced with the ?Baileys unit... otherwise why have a dump to atmos and a recirc? the bailey kits come with a t-pice to fit into the pipe from turbo to IC, after the hard pipe piece, prob...

allan welsh wrote:nice car you got there danny.

lol, although very nice, the job is better!

think i may have to drop out of the standby list jonno, as car should've only recently been mapped then so power run wouldn't be needed, but would still like to turn up if thats ok?!

cheers mate

bouncy bounce!

it's the vacuum pipe that goes from turbo housing to the actuator you want(round looking thingy, usually black!!) put it in between them with straight part of MBC pointing towards the turbo & the 90° exit going to the actuator. as for dissabling the VSV, just cut the other pipe from the actuator...

Right, might sound a daft question, but my HKS bov comes with 2 vacuum pipe connections, one on top like normal & one underneath, (see pic).

Probably a daft obvious question, but i've no ideas!!!



cheers

lol, no worries bud, know what ya meant tho!