www.imoc.co.uk

you can buy the factory applied stuff from toyota and its not mega $$$$

Over the last year I have done lots of little jobs that have involved me losing a bit of coolant, and on reassembly I only ever topped up with plain water, about 2 litres overall. (car had complete coolant flush and refil with forlife about 1 month before purchase, 18 months ago) Today I decided to ...

i would imagine that one of the bulbs has blown in such a way that the filimant has lodged against the prongs over a shrt distance, meaning more current than should be is flowing...

change both the bulbs and clean up the connectors you should be fine mate

Thanks for the help! We removed the distributor cap and visually inspected the pick ups and all looked ok. From what I've checked I was suspecting ECU as well, I will look into sourcing a replacement today. Thanks again for all the advice. James James, deffo think its the ECU if its still not worki...

Looks like the rev1 one mate

Find a hard ball just bigger than the tip, whack it in with a hammer. When you remove it will be perfectly round

At this point I would take a temp reading of the front main rad (use an infrared thermometer)

Compare the readings between when temp guage is normal and when its in the red or fluctuating.

If they are not massively doffferent it could just be faulty sender or guage itself

Dan23 wrote:where about is the coolant temp sensor located? cos i think im gonna replace mine

Its the green plug 2 wire sensor on the water elbow, gearbox side of engine around corner from distributor cap

He is just being responsible and not wanting to modify the brakes in any way. Sign of a good mech I think not wanting the risk

New shocks I bought for another car only damped on way out, not the inward stroke

i had a toy Jhonny 5 when i was a kid. I want it back

JohnnyC wrote:All the same, except for rev1 had different lengths to rev2+

they are still interchangeable though i believe

if your gonna go with two washers to get the thickness, i would apply a little epoxy in between them to glue them togther in one solid shape. Reason being, i had to do something similar for a belt tensioner on a machine in work, and i found that occasionally one of the washers (due to vibration) wou...

probably droplinks, ARB bushes, balljoints or the oh-so-terrible tie rod bearings. check out the droplinks / arb bushes first. get 2 trolley jacks or similar under both ends of the rear subframe, and lift the wheels off the ground. can you feel any play in the links or bushes? if you can those are y...

standard exedy in mine, no complaints whatsoever!

the standard exedy / toyota OEM / ADL blueprint ones are really the best to get if your not running silly power and want something with a "normal" feel

Wouldent it be easier to get a toyota one? Not that much more expensive than a non genuine one anyway. Not for me, its well over an hour to my nearest dealer! And the Motor Factors round here are useless and more expensive than Halford on trade ebay ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-TOYOTA-MR2-TU...

why buy a crappy halfords one for too much?

pop into your local factors and you should be able to get a blueprint one for about £3

Are you sure you can trust your garage with this diagnosis? All mr2 engines are non interference meaning the piston should never ever touch the valves, even it they are fully open. On these engines valve damagebas a result of belt failure is extremely unlikely, and there are many members who havve h...

or tie rod or track rod end

in a turbo, can well believe it. would do about the same in my n/a around town in the terrible traffic here at the moment, on the other side on a recent trip to wales from plymouth, brimmed the tank and by the time i got to newport it had only just come off the full mark :thumleft: wasnt particurly ...