www.imoc.co.uk

its a common misconception that "standard" plugs are more conductive and hence give a better spark. In actual fact, all plugs now contain copper cores in both the centre electrode and ground strap, but the mistake people make is that its copper all the way to the tip in basic plugs. It is ...

dont take is as gospel that they are the best for you, but that for me, they were the best! if you know what i mean

dont want you ending up wasting 30 quid then getting all annoyed with me

(they really are the best for me) LOL

i got them from my favourite local factors, was £32 for the set of 4 Im certain that the larger gap on the smaller electrode tip is giving way better spark, for me at least! just make sure your timing is bang on after you change them :thumleft: If you do go for them, and you dont get on with the 1.1...

i been spending lotsa $$$ figuring this out on my NA and have come to a conclusion....and its a bit weird.... Best plugs i have found for performance, a noticeable throttle response improvement and no misfires so far are... NGK BKR6EIX-11 yes, with a factory 1.1mm gap. Im running a completely stock ...

bloomin 'eck james! still not going ?


next week i got a couple days off, want me to come up and we can take a look again? can make it a whole day so can give it a good go-over. thur / fri ?

gav

AVON ZZ3 Relatively inexpenisve, have found mine to be long lasting and truly excellent grip. On my car handle the same in the wet as when its dry. Quiet too On these in my rev 1 still have not had rear step out in 9 months of hard use :thumleft: I should add that I prefer them to the proxies I had ...

You might find the pedal linkage has some slack hence the travel, the free play on the brake pedal can be adjusted...did mine now feels like new

Its rad/cig 15a drivers footwell

Beru. Manufactured coil is like 25 squid at eurocarparts

id rather have your torque curve @ 220hp than 400hp with an all-or nothing torque curve mate!

its a good result!

remember, torque is what matters most, HP is just about top speed really

you wont necessarily feel balljoint play with the wheels and lower arm attached. I had knocking noises, could not detect play in balljoints (month after an mot too). Decided to change them anyway and when i got the old ones off they were well past it. If your on the original 19 year old ones its wor...

could be like mine mate....

has softish pedal with bit too much travel -

changed discs / pads / fluid
calipers all free and working properly
beld system so many times not funny


changed to braided lines, prob solved

mine sounded like it came from the pedal itself. when the clutch was done i asked them where the squeak was and they said after following it (first thought it was pedal, then master cylinder) turned out it was the fork itself.

been silent ever since

Its the bushing on the clutch release fork that squeak. When getting clutch done always ask them to lube it, mine was done and is silky smooth and silent now

rocket launchers and machine guns

No, its not a new sport for the fatties, it's a mildly annoying trait of my 2 at the moment. #-o The car seems fine most of the time, but occasionally when at lower-ish revs in 3rd of 4th gear (30-40mph) the car seems to run a bit... well.. "lumpy"! feels almost like someone is constantly...

Well I bled again today, no white goo so whatever it was its gone now

White goo...like mayonaise? Sounds like oil mixed with coolant... nah, nothing like mayo. bright white, not so much of it to be of real concern, not lumpy etc. Dont lose or burn any oil either , have no concerns it being head gasket. a better description would be a thin yoghurt! seems more like som...

mmmmmmmm shiney

flippin awesome mate....

i can get mine to look like that (original red paint 20 years old) but after a few days it starts fading again