www.imoc.co.uk

Maybe also check static timing. Wouldn't be the first time a timing belt crapped out while standing.

Seal are knackered. Happened to me years ago too! Always on the autobahn when in a jam or shortly afterwards when standing still...the pent up heat made the seal so soft, that it couldn't hold pressure.

btw: Slave seal....not master

That's why i always work from the result of the problem backwards towards the potential source

Engine doesn't run. Engine needs air, fuel and spark to run. Are all present?...and so on. Saves enourmous amounts of time. But well done nevertheless.

Use a voltmeter to measure across the battery terminals...anything less than 14v means alternator.

The small pipe ist pressed into a housing that has a simple ball valve. The housing itself is screwed into the block.

It looks to me like the piston and the squirter had contact.......aftermarket pistons maybe?

It's not that the compressor cannot flow enough air...it's the exhaust housing thats the problem. At 5k in 4th and above the sheer mass of exhaust gases flowing through the turbine housing is such that it starts to choke. The turbine begins to slow down reducing boost. The CT27 addressed this by opt...

If you really want to be certain and don't mind paying a bit more then take a ganders at the stage 8 locking fasteners.

First pic isn't ground, it's battery positive. Second pic is not stock but good enough. Thick ground wire from gearbox to left motor mount Edit: Is the ground wire from the gearbox going to the starter!? If so...do not do that! Place it somewhere attached to the left motor mount. Third pic, ringed e...

Well done that man!

Sounds to me like a fueling issue, especially considering it seems to be worse when applying throttle.
First step check codes. Second step check fuel filter. Third check whether fuel pump works and has enough pressure.

You can check the ring gear by looking through the hole where the sensor mounts. Be advised, that toyota does not stock any of their nylon ring gears any more.

Whether this is difficult or not depends on if you have AC or not. Without Ac the 12mm (head size) bolt (not a nut!!) attaching the dipstick tube to the thermostat housing is easily reached with an angled/offset ring spanner - it just requires a bit of stretching. With AC the whole thing becomes mor...

I would hazard a guess, that the wiring to the 4 pin dizzy connector has a problem. Remove the connector and have a good look at the wires/contacts. It may be one is frayed.

Static timing is set primarily using the crank and cam pulleys. On the outside most lip of the crank pulley there is a vertical slot. This is the #1 cylinder tdc mark. This should be lined up with the '0' line on the lower timing belt cover. Now to make sure you're at tdc on the compression stroke y...

Probably for cruise control

I hope everything is okay and that you are continuing along the same lines as before

No need for a mechanic to read the fault codes. A paperclip can be used as a conductor to short Tc and E in the diagnostic port. We needn't be concerned with wiring yet....at least not until we can rule out everything else

Have you pulled the error codes? Short Tc and E in the diagnostics port and switch on ignition (don't start). Check the P/S light in the dash...is it blinking approx. twice a second continously oder is it flashing some kind of code as described here: http://mr2.ie/mr2/bgb/mk2/mechanical/manual_1162_...

deer tallow is commonly used over here in germany.

They should all connect to the earth strap on the rear of the intake manifold.