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What wiring loom (NA repinned/turbo) and ECU are you using?

The whole sensor usually comes out as one without any problems. Sounds to me like yours had oxidized itself to the gearbox housing. Some heat would break it loose.

Does it only happen when the engine is warmed up? I had something similar once. The seals in the slave cylinder were old and would deform under pressure when warm. That meant my clutch would crap out on me every time it got hot in the engine bay.

I've seen numerous bearing failures on other vehicles but as you're usually left with bits of molten, smeared and crushed metal it's nigh impossible to correlate the damage with the use of an impact gun. I would even go so far as to say most garages do it to remain competetive with their pricing (lo...

1) your run of the mill 240V impact gun has enough grund to loosen a 200NM Bolt......that's more than enough to damage the bearing surfaces
2) Yes! If you're going to use a gun the best way would be to lock the flywheel first.

Impact driver?? On a crank shaft? You do realise there are conrods attached to the crank and that these have journal bearings... the bearing surface doesnt take kindly to repetative radial force of the kind caused by impact guns. The above method is used (with minor alterations and special tools) b...

Yamaha designs the heads for all toyota performance engines - the 1LR-GUE being the latest.

Impact driver?? On a crank shaft? You do realise there are conrods attached to the crank and that these have journal bearings... the bearing surface doesnt take kindly to repetative radial force of the kind caused by impact guns. The above method is used (with minor alterations and special tools) by...

I found it best to jam a pry bar/ tire iron into the teeth of the flywheel and rest it against the shaft of a screw threaded deep into one of the bolt holes for the gearbox bolts. Something like this.... http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/23/2a/c3/m...

None....the mat doesn't serve as noise protection imho; purely for heat control.

Check the continuity of the black/yellow wire going from the alt connector to connector EB1 in the engine bay fuse box. Also Check that the pins have good contact.

I would lose the mat completely and replace with heat reflective tape. Take a look at dei products...

Can you maybe give any feedback on the handbrake version? I would really like a quality brake upgrade but there is no way for me to get it approved here in germany without a handbrake.

Are you sure the smoke is white? Rings/ringlands/turbo seals/Valve shaft seals etc. all lead to oil burning..which burns blue.

Browse the Link/Vipec forums or ask Link/Vipec directly for a 3sgte base map. They're usually very helpfull

Check the heat shields on the firewall.

Using a thicker headgasket alters the squish and is generally not advised to alter CR

I'm gonna ask a stupid question but did you retorque the ARP's after a heat cycle? ARP recommend doing this.

no, it's not possible to reach 300whp on stock turbo and fuelling.

I always place the oil sender at the point farthest from the pump. This is usually the spot where a drop in pressure will be noticed first. That means I place it in the stock location