www.imoc.co.uk

Steve-O 2007 wrote:Well problem sorted Owned the car for 3 years and now its all sorted. Looks like it was the stock wastegate not being able to cope with the free flowing mods, Sorted by fitting a Greddy TD05 with External wastegate

Quality mate Much quicker?

pbmr2 wrote:what's the process?

do you use ready made copper parts or have to shape them too?

any info would be great.

http://mr2.com/ARTICLE/CopperContacts.html

I got some prices from Toyota on Saturday and here they are...
Distributor cap 19101-88364 = £68.02 + vat
Rota arm 19115-88280 = £16.05 + vat

These are for a rev 3 turbo

Bone wrote:Funny you should say that as I've just swapped my ngk king lead for my old standard one and the cars running a lot better. I'll have to see how it goes

All was well until today, she started playing up on the way home from work.

Funny you should say that as I've just swapped my ngk king lead for my old standard one and the cars running a lot better. I'll have to see how it goes

I've just removed mine. You need to connect the top and the bottom together then it will vent to atmos

Some help from some decent people

Yep I've looped at the throttle body and joined the other 2 together. Sorted

The pipe is vented to outside of the car so I'll have no problems. Thanks for you help xxxx. There's plenty of people who have done this mod with no problems.

jasongtr wrote:why muck around with the fuel breather system if you dont know exactly what you are doing, what benefits are there to removing it?

What's the point in giving me an answer like that? There's no need for it so I'm making some space and saving a bit of weight. I'm on here to find out what I'm doing.

I'm in the process of removing my charcoal canister and am unsure what 2 of the pipes are. Is the big pipe on the bottom the tank vent? What is the small pipe at the top which goes under the inspection panel? Cheers

Toby

<r><E/><QUOTE author="djpkins"><s>[quote="djpkins"]</s>The aircon idle up valve is attached to the fuel injector pack and has 2 vac line connectors.<E/>.<E/>.thought this may be leaking vacum, and if you've no aircon may aswell take it off.<E/><br/> The charcoal canister is easy enough to remove phy...

I swapped mine from iridium to coppers and it ran better on the coppers BKR7E @ 0.8mm. I read a thread where the tip broke off the iridium plugs and caused a lot of damage to the pistons etc, he had to have a re build. That's why I changed to coppers. They don't last as long but there cheap. :thumle...

...lol..you want to hope that they're all fine...if they were that low you wouldn't be able to keep up with the milkman...thats good news anyway mate. There just arn't many more electrcal components on the check list Fuel injector pack, fuel pump relay, do you still ave your aircon idle up valve co...

I reckon it just flushed the bores with fuel that's why it was low. Why do you need the throttle open? There all equal so must be fine.

Did you remove the efi fuse and hold the throttle wide open when you tested ? I had circa 180 psi on all cylinders on my old 1mm headgasket, and when I checked the other day - I had circa 152 psi on all cylinders with a 1.4mm gasket. No it was shut and no i didn't pull any fuses. I just unplugged t...

Prob a little bit warm, It was sitting round for about 1 hour before testing.

Not bad, how much was that? I've done a compression test today and all 4 cylinders were at 100psi. No oil leak near the distributor either.

I'll check tomorrow. No the charcoal canister is still in place.

It's clean and bone dry inside the distributor cap.

I'm gonna keep an eye on this as i've got a similar (ish) problem. Not meaning to hijack, but mine (now rev3) has a slight misfire when cold and chucks out loads of grey smoke that stinks of fuel, but the misfire doesn't clear when warm - although the smoke does. It got so bad the other day that it...