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I think the import N/A's were designed to run on 100RON as per standard in Japan. Gennerally only 97/99 is available in UK so this is your best bet. Otherwise poor fuel consumpsion could be a number of things. e.g. Air intake leak, lambda sensor... Have you done a service recently? My fuel consumpti...

Toyota part number = 89465-29825 for Rev3 N/A I think

double check using your chassis reference at http://www.toyodiy.com/

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... highlight=

have a look at this ^^

I was 'close' to failing apparently due to lambda so let me know how you get on as I imagine it will be my turn in a few months.

I would have thought that you need to replace both rear wheel bearings. This is not really a job you can do yourself as I understand that you need a special peice of kit to 'press' the new bearings on... Did you get a quote? Any info from the garage as to what they thought was involved? Maybe get an...

done a set today. All very nice, apart from no bracket on the rear to fit to the chassis. Not particularly needed for the MoT however we fit a little 'P' clip to hold them nice and tight. ditto this - it is really quite annoying when they are advertised as upgrade from OEM and you have to do a ghet...

I had dinos settings done a couple of weeks back - recommended

* I am running standard 15's with 8month old toyo proxes all round

also recommended for alignment is Nigel Langs at Bolton

iv had the car about 2month, the temp gage iv found out tonight moves up slow to the middle. its only just started doing it. ahhh bleeding :( this could cause me a problem lol. not sure how easy it is on a mr2 that is what is should do! search google/imoc/mr2oc for radiator change. all the ins and ...

Check the engine mounts. With the engine cold, grab a hold of it and try to rock it back and forth (front to back of the vehicle) and see if there's any movement. There should be a little, but no more than a cm or so I'd guess. also second this - another way to test is to start the engine, pop the ...

This maybe a curve ball but - does this happen with the clutch depressed? Try it - it might not be your clutch at all

You mention wet weather - cant see why a clutch would pick rainy days to slip?

.... maybe electrial? visually check the ground and alternator as an easy starter

Thanks bob Just so I dont stuff this up - What I need is the mounting which houses the rubber bush (towards the front/chassis end)? this is the adjustable bit? presumably I need the bolts aswell then or are these generic (i.e. same as Rev2+)? Sorry if this appears dim but I am asking because I am li...

Yes as long as you get the bar and mounting. Bob Cheers Bob - that is v useful to know :thumleft: I guess you have done this yourself? Just so I am clear - I was thinking that I would get an aftermarket polybush for where the tension rod bolts to the chassis. Is the mounting you mention at the 'hub...

bobhatton wrote:Go to the scrap yard and get a set from a REV 1

I had assumed they wouldnt fit

take it they do

pulling away or breaking? maybe callipers? do they appear to be the origionals? If so you you will most likley need new/refurbs or try first to try greasing the sliders. cant imagine why the callipers would knock but they are worth checking anyways. other than that just get someone else to drive sta...

you Should be OK getting the alternator out of the top on an N/A - turbo - I think I read somewhere that it is not possible

From memory - you can only just get the alternator out of the top on its own. This is a real a pig of a job if its seized up- I am also sure that my pivot bolt had some thread lock or similar on it. Have you tried leavering the alternator with a breakers bar (or similar?) - you can often get some pu...

Hello all, Best tension rods for castor andjustment (and prices!)? I had a 4 wheel alignment at Nigel Langs (Bolton) last Friday and found that my castor was imbalanced (something like 3.32 degrees FLeft and 2.62 degrees Fright). FROM MEMORY! Anyway at Nigel Langs they adjusted the camber to 'compen...

The alternators are a pain in the ar$e - worth noting that N/A alternators are smaller, you have more difficulty getting a turbo alt out the top of the bay :) Not sure about the 2 man bit though ;) haha - certainly a lot easier with two, although when you know how its done, I guess it would be alot...

Wow - what a ball ache. you NEED two people for this job!! unles you are chuck norris or an octapus. turned out I had a ceased alternator - bu88er to get out. this link helped: http://www.quickfinger.com/~joe/articles/mr2-alternator.txt I read in this link (and others) that you have to remove the mi...

Thanks dude.

lots of WD40 and a block of wood and I'll attack it again tomorrow

Thanks Toxo. I have had all the bolts off at one stage. wouldnt move either way ](*,) the belt is still in tact and tense - so I guess the alternator wouldnt move outwards because of the belt resistance? So I guess I am looking to move it towards the engine? Given that I have had everything off - I ...