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Ok Scomr2, i didn't have to want to resort to showing you a weaker production bracket, because my build is all about constructive criticism, which at the end of the day helps me build this car, but i feel you are just being argumentative for the sake of it now with no real reason for criticizing th...

Right so if it was loaded on the spine potentially the welds were not loaded at all - you could take one gusset, stand it on end and apart from blunting the tip it should take the 50 ton load. It's dangerous to underestimate fatigue failure - try reading this wiki page http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F...

If your 50 ton press test was done with the bracket bolted to the press bed and the load applied such as to open up the V then you have indeed tested the critical welds between the gussets and the two plates. Just because one of your brackets passed the press test and MANY have not yet failed in fat...

with regards drilled brake discs... so basically its a complete non-issue. its unsightly (although cant be seen once the wheel is on anyway), and from an engineering perspective is definitely not ideal. you wouldnt see a manufacturer using such practices from the factory, thats for sure. but from a...

[quote="alfiembra"] 'Roughly speaking the space between the centres of holes should not be less than 2.5 times the diameter of the stud. So for example if your studs are 10mm diameter then you should have 25mm centre to centre as a minimum. You definately have one hole that wouldn't satisf...

This is probably a pointless argument but functionally an aluminium heat shield does not require thickness - if it did the Nimbus stuff would not be 0.6mm thick. This sort of heat shield works on three levels - it's shiny so it reflects the radiant heat, it's highly conductive so it spreads the heat...

Ok functionally how is chequer plate better than plain 2mm ally sheet?

2mm sheet is lighter, easier to form, cheaper and doesnt have a built in cheese grater to skin your knuckles against

Maybe it's the angle but the exhaust looks like it's going to toast the drive shaft boot long before the ecu.

Have to say that chequer plate looks naff, a bit of Nimbus Lite would be so much better - not in the same price bracket as the plate though!

Yep I found exactly the same when I stripped my mk1b - one on one side but not on the other. I left it out when I rebuilt it - no idea why it was like that.

At a guess you are going to need a press and tube with an inner diameter very slightly bigger than the pinion to get the bearing off without damaging it. Safest bet would be to buy a scrappy steering rack to have a practice on before trashing your main one. The bearing will have a code on it that wi...

The other part of system that holds it in gear is the way the splines are cut with a minute angle on them so that under torque there is thrust that pulls the sleeve towards the gear. This angle is difficult to measure let alone 'see' and is only apparent when there is torque transfer from the gear t...

If by detents you are talking about the grooves in the shift fork rods which have a spring loaded ball sitting in them then no their job is to keep the fork positioned in the centre of the sleeve groove - if the detent position was such that the fork was pressing against the sleeve then the fork tip...

The detents are more to hold the shift fork in the right position when the gear is engaged rather than to actually hold the position of the syncronizer sleeve. This is why you are taught not to hold the gear lever as it overcomes the detent position forcing the fork against the sleeve causing tip we...

So far nobody has mentioned the idle up valve - this raises the rpm by ~200 whenever there is an electrical load. If you switch off everthing including the passenger camparment fan then the idle up valve should close and the revs drop. If you are going to fiddle with the idle speed then this should ...

The nut spot face isn't the nicest detail on those caps (no fillet radii to speak of and sharp edge where the face runs off the sides) but they look plenty chunky otherwise so should be alright

Try northampton motorsport - they will probably seem expensive but they will do a proper job. You can help them out by printing out the relevant pages from the bgb and pre-soaking everything in penetrating oil.

Limeymk1 wrote:The oil does need to be the correct type to preserve the gearing in the box, GL-3 oil is the stuff to use as it helps preserve the brass synchro rings.

No you want GL-4. The toyota spec is for 75w-90 GL4 or GL5. If the box is notchy then GL-4 will help the tired syncros.

You need ~2.5litres btw.

Best place for hose is think automotive, see; http://www.thinkauto.com/ I used Mocal SH925 3/8" id for this job but I'm not sure if it is still available. You want to be very sure of fitting this hose properly as a spray of oil onto the exhaust will start a fire that will be very difficult to p...

ok if the bolts stayed the same maybe the gasket design changed. Applying a bit of maffs, 47lbft of torque gives about 36kN of tensile load in the stud. 22lbft + 180degrees is a bit more tricky but guessing the stud shank diameter and it's length I reckon about 47kN of tensile load which is about th...

There are a couple of reasons for 2nd gear syncro to wilt above other gears; Firstly it's a physically large gear so the syncro has to work harder to spin it up to speed than the other gears (1st excepted). Secondly people make the syncro work hard by changing down without matching the revs which th...