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ok got the new diff bearings from Mr T and trial fitted the diff in the case today. The new bearings must be a bit thicker as with the original shim the preload is much too high - long shot this but as there is a valve shim bank is there also a transmission shim bank? Currently got an 'F' shim fitte...

From Mr T repair manual;
Warm engine
Remove plugs
Fully charged battery
WOT
Pressure should be 190psi
Minimum 142psi
If you followed all this then suggests rings worn or valves leaking.

No worries - bearings will definitely be from Mr T - they seem to be some sort of hybrid where the code on the inner doesn't match the diameter of the outer race.

Need to fabricate another GST to pull the outer races.

Classic GST (Ghetto Service Tool) - two M10 bolts with their heads ground into puller tips clamped by two strips of metal; http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/2715/dsc03821p.jpg This shameful contrivance worked where my normal two leg puller just broke - the problem is on the speedo gear side you nee...

Dropped my transaxle today - started at 10:30, finished by 5pm with an hour for lunch, think I'm going to ache tomorrow though!

Plan to strip it tomorrow to replace the diff main bearings - has anybody got a tool for applying the torque to the diff to set the bearing preload?

You want this style of puller http://www.google.co.uk/search?tbm=isch ... h=320#i=19
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If you have a dremel use one of the cut-off discs to make a slot right across the head and then use a large flat blade screw driver. Depending on access might be possible to create the slot with a needle file or hacksaw blade. Once it starts to turn get some penetrating oil in there and if it starts...

Seems like you've pretty much eliminated a cable fault and doesn't sound like a wear issue as the pop-out would start to happen only under high load occassionally before developing into what you are describing as the wear gets excessive. Another thing you can check is to drain the oil - if it's shin...

Not saying it's a bad repair but if the original failed because the two sections are trying to pull away from one another due to heat expansion then this is likely to fail the same way. Looks like the plate ought to be S shaped to give support and a bit of flexibility.

PW@Woodsport wrote:They will be made to order at any time, no need to worry.

EDIT: The engineers have gone quiet

Looks pretty sensible - bar in the the same plane as the mounting plate which is important for stiffness. Overall looks beefy enough to double as a towing pole should the need arise

Sorry us nerds should just keep quiet and go back to designing cars, mobile phones, computers... and leave you cool types to enjoy the fruit of our labours in blissful ignorance.

I'd go for the steel CDS tube every time. No engineering justification required, its just "stronger". If aluminium was in any way suitable then it would be used for roll cages. Whether it works out stronger vs mass when compared to steel, the fatigue issues will always make steel a safer ...

Cheers bud, that's some impressive calculation for a bank holiday Monday! So am I right in thinking that 0.6kg of 7075 ali tube (30mm OD 2.5mm wall) is as stiff as the same mass of 21swg 30mm OD T45 steel tube? I couldn't work out what yield safety factor meant in practice. Yield safety factor is h...

Cheers bud, that's some impressive calculation for a bank holiday Monday! So am I right in thinking that 0.6kg of 7075 ali tube (30mm OD 2.5mm wall) is as stiff as the same mass of 21swg 30mm OD T45 steel tube? I couldn't work out what yield safety factor meant in practice. And luckily I've got a f...

You need a spreadsheet for this one - here's the output from one I just cooked up; http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/7163/screenshot3ia.png So I've just made the bar 1m long and applied a nominal 20kN load, the bars have the same mass and almost identical stiffness, note how thin the wall of the st...

Exactly. And the fatigue limit at 10^7 cycles is at most half that of steel. If you're aiming for endurance of 10^7 cycles and you have an area at a joint or hole where the stress concentration is around k=2-3 then you're going to have to use aluminium that is 4-6 times the area. Aluminium is aroun...

Aluminium is only different from Steel in that it doesn't have a well defined endurance limit. Exactly. And the fatigue limit at 10^7 cycles is at most half that of steel. If you're aiming for endurance of 10^7 cycles and you have an area at a joint or hole where the stress concentration is around ...

Perhaps not by your definition but others seem to disagree; Scroll down to audi asf: http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/chassis/tech_chassis2.htm Another one: http://www.autoblog.com/2010/03/01/fisker-karmas-aluminum-space-frame-digitally-revealed/ Ford GT40: www.aec.org/assets/pdfs/ShwcsFrdG...

I apologise, I didn't mean to place doubt on the quality of your work, i'm merely coming at it from an engineers point of view. Any strut brace with a bend in it is going to be doing very little in the way of stiffening things up, whether it's solid or tubular, so you can discount those immediately...

All of this over a brace i was making 10 years ago :lol: It was my first attempt when there was pretty much nothing already on the market at all for the Mk1, i didn't have half of the access to tools and equipment that we do these days and i only thought about over engineering the job rather than m...