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Very old topic, but I have the same problem. The drains are completely clogged because.... the previous owner filled the whole chassis with urethane foam to increase the stiffness (the car was a 90% track car usage). The nightmare for me (I use it for track only 40% of the time). Not sure how to rem...

No specific event. The gearbox was overhauled with a new clutch around 5000miles ago. Oil change 1000miles ago or so.

Hi all. The problem is on my track/ touge car. SW 20 GTS rev3. It has an ORC clutch and celica alltrac 2nd to 4th gears. After about 1500miles of driving the clutch began to drag after driving. It would be fine cold. But little driving and drag. Making it hard or impossible to downshift without blip...

I have to try... DENSO Iridium Power!

Looking sweet mate! Is that the same one you bought when you sold yours to me?

Hmmm, I would still suggest to change engine. I know it wont be original... but think of Takumi (Initial-D anime). Stage 2, he finally lost a race when his engine blew on him. He cried and was sad because he felt it was his fault, but his dad told him it was nothing he did. The engine had been at it...

I read somewhere about Woodsport's 5th. Can anyone shed anymore light on that? Perhaps there is a magical 1,2,3,4 too?

If you got a few spanners/sockets do it yourself! Super easy. Changed one on an side road. (Got into the habit of carrying the few sockets and spare belt after it happened to me with my AW11 and had to pay for a tow-truck home). Of course that is assuming the alternator is not dieing as suggested ea...

Hi everyone. So the situation is this. I been living in Germany for a few months and have now moved to Japan and hence had to sell my NA SW20. :( But now in Japan, I am looking at buying an MR2 Turbo. Now honestly speaking, I preferred NA MR2s, but in Germany, on the autobahn, speed and power is ver...

Long leg is +ve, short -ve.
Also there is usually a small notch on the side of an LED, this should be the side of the small leg, so that is another indicator for the -ve.

Bloody hell, I thought it was worse. I know how I would bend it back, but doubt you have the equipment I am thinking of.

jdbecks wrote:you will weaken the metal by straightening it..same if you heat it up

Actually if he bends it, it will only get harder.
Metals work harden. You substitute ductility for hardness, and thus reducing toughness, but I doubt it is THAT bent to make that much of a noticeable difference.

I had bent my mk1's by jacking it incorrectly (and no - I did not jack it from the middle), but that was the Mk1's factor brace across the 2 arm pivot points.

How do you "hold it"? Not that i want to hold it, i'd just like to learn a few corrective techniques in case it happens again. does it not snap the opposite way when traction is regained? My mk1 used to do that, snap opposite way when the traction comes back, and on most occasions I would...

On my mk1, it snapped on ocassions but I have succeeded to hold it, but it was spooky and there were near misses - but I had terrible tyres too, and had spent for ever playing the with the setup I wanted, so not exactly stock set-up. On my mk2, I have a rev 3 with D2 coilovers, 205/45/16 Toyo T1R, a...

You cannot test a knock sensor with an ohnmeter.

You need an oscilloscope and to tap it.

And to be honest, from experience, that is not always enough, they sometimes deaf to certain frequencies.

Awesome car mate!

Scan'em, and I will draw them up for you in CAD in those file formats.

You do not have enough dimensions on those drawings.

I wish it was, but I put new brake pads and the fluid has returned to the max mark...

That was my second hope - brake fluid

Will check the fluid before leaving on Friday and will check again while I am in Europe picking up my misses from Duisburg.

Funny you posted this, was just going to order a short shift today lol. Now you gave me doubts. Anyone else feels like commenting on it?

Thanks for sharing the time, a torque bar is something I definitely want to get fitted.