www.imoc.co.uk

Just put it in the car.

I have a large (19") bike and just put it on the passenger seat. Also do the same in my MX5.

No damage to paint or risk to bike.

Thanks for the replies. I plan on keeping the car for a while (forever?? - already had it for 10 years!) and given the 2 yr guarantees on reconditioned calipers vs the original Toyota ones lasting 15+ years I have gone for the slightly more expensive Mr T option. I will be left with a seized Caliper...

glen n wrote:I bought reconditioned ones on eBay,they were 65 for rears and 55 for fronts I think and 15 for returning your old caliper. I've had no issues with them so far.

How long ago did you buy them and how many miles have you done?

Hi Bob, I appreciate the concern, however, surely this is only an issue if the other caliper is not working correctly as it should be. Furthermore, I expect that by the same reason the car should have been pulling right recently given the total seizure of the caliper in question - but it hasn't been...

Hi, After refurbing my calipers myself, the rear driver side has a seized piston again (after about 4 yrs I guess). I'm bored with constantly DIYing so going to just get a new Caliper. So, do I buy brand new from Mr T at £165 (a friend works there) OR Do I buy a reconditioned unit from Brakes Intern...

Just to give you some confidence, I removed mine intact and therefore had to undo all the bolts etc. was a while back but I seem to remember it took more time to figure out how to wiggle it out than to undo the bolts. Hardest one is at the bottom but all in it still took me under two hours to remove...

I understood the PAS turned off at 80kph. With the chip Davsurfa has, the PAS therefore won't turn off until 80 mph? I have the same chip and whilst you can feel the difference, above 80 mph it's a moot point anyway. I had an indicated 165mph on the autobahn and the car felt fine. It's not like your...

Could it be brake related? My front o/s went through a clicking phase that went when I changed discs and pads. The rear o/s now does it due to running ebc pads and switching back to carbotech without changing the disc.... Think it'll be slightly uneven wear - not really bothered. It goes when you br...

I think 225 on the rear will be fine.

235 prob better.

Having played around with tyre sizes I am going back to 205/45/17 on front and 225/45/17 on rear.

If you're near wearing out the tyres just get the right size all round.

Dump valve adjustable ?!? The flutter can be compressor flutter which is caused by a dump valve closing too early... retaining charge in the pipes... I think my HKS is a version 3 and am pretty sure it can't be adjusted. Been on the car for 4 years or so but things changed when the vac pipe popped ...

I wonder if anyone has an idea about this?: When you stand at the rear of the car there is a black canister, bit like a coke can, that has various vacuum pipes coming out of it. One of these came off under boost a few weeks ago. It's back on with a zip tie added but since then I get much more flutte...

Ah, good stuff.

Just need to get your car finished now so we can enjoy the next updates to your thread!!

Good luck

As per the title really.

There seems to be no trace and it was so nearly finished!

Anyone any ideas? Karl?

From memory they are just a small bit of metal, bent into a right angle, with 2 holes drilled in it.... One to screw the BOV to the metal, the other to screw to the hot pipe. You could make one for a couple of quid and be done with it. Mine wasn't even "bent" correctly and I had to tweak i...

I have had this on the front too.

You need either 215/40/17 or 205/45/17

I would be 99% sure it's the tyres. I have put 215s front and rear (incorrectly and intentionally) when I normally run 215 front and 235 rear. The car has gone from super stable and predictable to terrible, wooly and scary at anything above 40 ish. Putting spacers on the rear won't solve the issue, ...

Check the cooling system for air (give it a bleed), but don't worry too much if you still get boiling water noises. It's pretty normal.

Well, a friend of mine had leaky oil seals. The exhaust didn't pump out any smoke while driving but if left on idle for a few mins, smoke would then then start coming out - it would go again when he started driving.

Sorry, don't know how to check for sure or cost to repair

I would imagine the only way oil can get into the exhaust is through the turbo? So...turbo oil seals perhaps?

I'm sure others will confirm or rubbish this shortly!!

Don't Exeddy make the Toyota ones?

Go direct rather than paying inflated Toyota prices?