I paid 101.9 the other night, its come down almost 30p since I bought the motor, its nearly a tenner difference per tank. hopefully this might keep our car prices stable now petrol is becoming resonable again, well for how long anyway
sounds like maybes a sticky caliper, but you loosened the bleed nipple to push in the pistons back in? You don't do that, you take the cap of the brake resivoir and push the pistons back in using a g-clamp and a bit of wood or such. You should only loosen the bleed nipple when you want to bleed them...
I was playing with a 55 plate scooby last week, was up my ar$e in 2cn but once I was in third I just kept pulling away from him in the rest of the gears, I could hear his uprated exhaust and dumpvalve so he did at least have some mods, im still stock boost with restricted 1st and 2cnd gear
The standard boost gauge is wildly inaccurate, when looking at what my standard boost gauge says compared to the aftermarket one is rather different, Ive had 2 sets of clocks in the car too so it wasnt just a dodgy stock boost gauge
I've got them, with 225/45/16's and 235/45/16's (tyre size is important for comfort levels), and they are quite harsh. Ive had really harsh coilover son other cars before though so these dont seem to bad, but others may not agree
dont use any colour waxes or polishes, they'll only make it look like you've made it red again till the next time it rains/you wash the car. Same goes with T-cut etc or super resin, you need a harsher cutting agent, try possibly G10 or something like meneza intensive polish.
This happens on a lot of engines, and its generally number 3, being a combination of inlet mani not feeding equally, lower fuel pressures, and the fact where number 3 is means it doest get as cooled as 1 & 4
You can also do that with a car battery charger and some washing powder, but that seems even easier, would of liked to see it on something really rusty though, like an old wishbone or hub or something to see how strong it really is.
Got mine fitted today, didnt take too long, I removed the air con pump while I was on too as the rest of it Ive already removed, took about 5 hours with plenty of tab/dinner and tea breaks. Im only running around 11psi (no boost controller but have a RSR exhaust and decat) but it defo feels like its...
I submitted a article here on the first thing to try with sticking rear calipers a couple of weeks ago but it still isnt up in the database? Anyway, basically remove the bottom bolt in the rear caliper that allows the caliper to swing up, clean the bolt and regrease, also work the caliper up and dow...
Well i`ve finally bought one from fleebay, £109.99 from tuningpartsbay. I got one off him too last week, got mine for £99 :oldtongue: :D The clamps are a bit xxxx with it but the rest of it sweems good. I've wasted plenty of money in the past on named stuff but theres no need too with all the stuff...
Sealed a cut mineral bottle to rear via tape to were metal cap goes... opened front radiator bleed valve at front keeping heater bleed valve closed...heater was set on warm and full blow... poured water in the bottle at back till it came out of bleed valve in top of radiator...closed of this radiat...
I know the stock dash is a little boring and plasticky, but painting or sticking xxxx over it, yuk. There was several cars I just disguarded straight away when I was looking for my 2 simply because the dash was painted
Also another thing I have thought about the shroud and cowel. Im finding it hard to put into words though. Like this, you're driving down the motorway with your heaters on full wack and the windows up, ooh nice and warm, pretty powerful, but open the window just a tiny bit and suddenly the heaters a...
Thanks for that mate, I've refitted my old cap and arm and it seems to be fine now, but I havent really drove it much since, so Im not sure yet but I could do with new ones of those