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Quigonjay wrote:no, its not
i was thinking along the lines of civic/teg type r's
but after checking there are some that have marginally more than 150

Common myth. Vtecs often have very good torque for their displacement and being N/A, they just dont have much displacement.

Quigonjay wrote:looking at the figures, the 2.0 in the st seems like a really good engine
might only be 150 but 150 of torque too, thats more than any vtec and more than my old rover 2.0 turbo diesel

150 lbs more than any vtec? Thats not true

Looks great, best colour IMO!

Yeah take a while to get used to how it drives, its much different to a FWD car. But once you get the hang of using the mid engine traction and power on the exits of corners its fantastic

Where are you getting these rich/lean readings from? Do you have wideband?

If you just have a Air/fuel gauge on using the narrowband lambda, then I wouldnt pay it too much attention, they are as good as useless.

Well my GT4 was undriveable earlier in the year when we had snow. I had to use the MR2 as there wasn't any public transport -it was a little hairy but I'm surprised how well it did drive in the snow. Just drive to suit the conditions -it was the other idiots driving up my back bumper then overtakin...

How do you disconnect the VSV? Drive the rear up some ramps... and you'll see it under the intake manifold... simply disconnect the connector going to it.... Remember, if you disconnect it, it means the VSV isn't bleeding off the air to the turbo actuator which means more boosted air is directed to...

You can get around 30mpg on a nice 60mph cruise. Expect mid 20s around town and low 20s when you give it some boost

Dont forget that you should only run these on super unleaded too as they are set up for Japanese 100octane.

Hi guys, thanks for the replies. I do actually have an induction kit I just forgot to mention it :) So I definitely need the injectors, metal head gasket, colder plugs and intercooler One thing I am a little unsure about is... If i get a rev3 turbo ecu and a boost controller, then up the boost, doe...

Looks great!

When you next see luke can you tell him to send me an invoice for the work he did for me. Still waiting for it from ages ago!

luke t wrote:cheers rob, imoc forum is without a doubt the best advice forum i have been to.

No prob. I had the same prob when I got my Greddy boost controller

ive had fluctuating readings since having my blizt dsbc fitted, so i decided to turn it to off mode, thinking ill go easy and see whet happens. it wouldnt boost past 0.7 bar, which i think is standard, but i will go up to 1.2 when boost controller is on, albeit spiking and jumping, so im assuming s...

When mapping on the power fc its evident that the knock sensors get very sensitive a short while before failing completely. This can be seen and has been noted with other members where they see very high knock readings on the commander yet in the det cans its very quiet. A error code of 52 being st...

Lambda wont affect it when on boost.

What gaps do you have in your plugs?

Right, firstly apologies for my ignorance in the matter I dont have a power goal as such, I'm not going to be using the car everyday now so I can afford the time for it to be off the road. The current spec is the basic bolt ons: intake, decat, 3" exhaust, intercooler, boost controller, fuel pu...

dazzz wrote:I'll find out.

What's the difference and which is the best?

Higher the number the bigger the compressor. From what I remember, the 18g is a little bit better than a CT20b - but not much. 20g or not worth it I think.

James84 wrote:will a lambda sensor from a uk car be fine in my imported car? is there a difference?

Only a difference between rev1/2 and 3+ I think. The earlyer being a 1 wire sensor and the later being a 4 wire (with heater).

Depends on what Compressor wheel it has. Should say either 16g 18g or 20g I think?

The Ecu is a PowerFC right?

Get it mapped by a Pro with Wideband lambda. Not worth nuking your engine if you are not sure.

When the air is dence at this time of year it can show up imperfections in the ignition.

I would check the plugs and gaps, the leads including the King lead (esp if you have magnacores!! ), also the dizzy cap and rotor arm.

HighwayStar wrote:or Adrian Flux...

R.

+1

Not even Sky could match the quote that flux quoted me for my car.