www.imoc.co.uk

I think you can use them on both but the SC had shorter plugs as the plug cover was resessed not flush with the cam covers.

I may be wrong though.

I'm on my second alternator, water finds a way somehow, after a big rain fall i've check the engine bay before and found water drops on the aux belt.

Mines just loud, i can do doing 5mph at 800rpm and its loud, i get more/better noise from the k&n 57i. Patching rust is pointless as unless you cut out all the bad metal it'll just come back. I had my rears replaced with repair panels nearly 3 years ago now and there still like new, its just the...

Its the compund they use that i'd be worried about. T1-R's are pretty good in 15" size, and i use c.Drives in 14" sizes.

Computer Says.....





.... No

Very loud, had mine for 7 years or so and looking to change to be honest as its too loud even at low revs. It's just noise now instead of a nice sound. If it weren't for having another car i would of swapped it by now for a mongoose or magnex.

http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/ list front and rear springs. I would also try the usuall places like parkers as they may list standard springs.

It was up for sale ages ago but was misplaced in the house move but found it again in my parents garage, a little dusty but in perfect condition...

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=135849

Not heard of anyone using the HKB boss before. There are known issues with some other ebay boss's as the indicator cancel doesnt work and indicator stork clearance (i guess this depends on the wheel though) I was using a momo boss and OMP 320mm superquadro D shape wheel but found it to small so its ...

Theres a shim bank going around but no idea where it currently is, someone else in the know will be along shortly though.

Its worth doing the balls joints as there around £15 a corner from the local motor factors. Droplinks are also worth doing as getting the old ones off sometimes results in damaging them. I cut mine and just welded them back together when i fitted the koni kit, full polybush and ball joints all round.

The KYB's are quite hard, i would go the Koni route then you'll be able to set them how you like. I run mine around half way on the settings so the cars really neutral and doesnt dip and dive under braking.

I would if only it didnt have a blue interiror, other than that cant see any problems with it.

Did you rotate the piston properly to get the pin inside the slot in the piston? If anyone's keen on the Greens I've got a set of new AW11 rears in Green on the self and I THINK I've got a low-milage set of AW11 fronts in Green too - drop me a PM if you fancy them. :) Yes i did, i wound the caliper...

I found with my EBC greenstuff rears i had to grind the nipple of the back of the pads to get them to fit as the caliper wouldnt go any further back with new disks in also.

Standard disks are fine for road use and i use EBC greenstuff. A few people on here dont like them but i find them great on the road.

Even with mine lowered the MR2 has really good ground clearance, our Alfa GT has more trouble, so did my old Z4/350Z. Surprisingly the Elise has pretty good clearance too.

I'd stick with the apex spings, never had a problem with how low the Mr2 is.

I run T1-R's on my 15" alloys.

This is mine on Koni's lowered 30mm, ive always felt the front sits a little high.